FAQ And Strategy Guide - Guide for World of Warcraft

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[World of Warcraft] FAQ/Strategy Guide
[Version] 0.12  [Author] Jdude84
[Contact] jch0449 [at] gmail [dot] com [AIM] JCLT811

[Table of Contents]
1. About WoW
2. WoW Lingo / Abbreviations
3. Frequently Asked Questions
   - Game Basics
   - Professions
   - Making Gold
   - Mounts
4. Game Etiquette
5. How To
   - Keyboard shortcuts
   - Pulling
   - Tanking
   - Grinding
   - Farming
   - Questing
   - Using the Auction House
6. Zone Information
   - Eastern Kingdom
   - Kalimdor
7. Administrivia
   - Legal Information
   - Credits
   - Version History
   - Contact Info

[1. About WoW]

World of Warcraft, known to its players more affectionately as WoW, or "The game
that stole my life from me", is the latest in the craze known as MMORPGs. It's
massive. It's multiplayer. To most, it's amazingly addictive. But I'm assuming
you know most of that already. This section really goes over nothing, so if you
know what you're looking for, skip this and head down to the other sections. For
those unaware of the existance of such game, here's a bit more information.

World of Warcraft [Website: http://www.worldofwarcraft.com] (Lots of useful
basic information there, by the way) is a MMORPG. Yes, it does cost monthly to
play, on top of the $49.99 to buy the game. The going rate is currently
$15/month, and more payment info can be found on their site.

If you're looking for reviews, check out the section devoted to such things
right here at GameFAQs, or just google it, if perchance you don't trust GameFAQs
(and why would you do such a thing?).

In general, if you like online RPGs, you'll like this game. If you like killing
things, you'll love this game. The depth of this game cannot even be attempted
to be covered even in brief in less than a few hundred paragraphs. If you can
think of it, odds are it is in this game in some form, or is planned to be
included in future patches. Yes, game content is non static and is updated quite
frequently. Further, more...useful information can be found throughout the rest
of this guide, so without further ado:

[2. WoW Lingo / Abbreviations]

If you've never played an online RPG before, you'll be surprised to see the
crazy amount of abbreviations, terms, and crazy lingo strewn across the many
channels of WoW. While most of the following can be found in the game manual
and/or on the WoW community site, if you've got no idea what a aggro hating
kiter is, you may want to read the following section. For "ease" of searching,
they're listed in alpabetical order, descending.

An enemy that attacks you while you are fighting another enemy. Sometimes
also referred to as "aggro".

Twofold meaning. The more common is the same as an [Add], where an enemy
you did not intend to attack attacks you while you are fighting another enemy.
The second, lesser used, refers to the amount of hate a monster has for you.
Hate is generated by the threat you cause to the monster, or by healing other
players. Generally common to hear mages complaining about aggro.

Away from keyboard. If you don't know what this stands for, you've
probably not heard of the internet either.

[Aggro Radius]
Exactly what it sounds like. It's the circular distance around a
particular [Mob] in which they will [Aggro] you. Determining the aggro radius on
various enemies simply takes time and experience, as most all of them have a
slightly differing range.

Stands for "area of effect". Certain spells, such as arcane explosion,
have this attribute. AoE spells will hit all enemies in a certain radius, such
as 10 yards.

Stands for "area effect". Pretty much the same as [AoE].

Stands for "auction house". These are located in Ironforge, Orgrimmar, and 

Your character.

A status boosting spell casted on yourself or another player. Examples of
this include Arcane Intellect, Blessing of Might, etc. Frequently you'll see
party members asking you to buff them.

Stands for "Blackfathom Deeps", which is one of many [Instance] dungeons
found throughout the game. Also one of the first ones you'll be able to enter,
in many cases.

Stands for "Bind on Pickup", an attribute of many drops. Means the item
cannot be traded or sold ot another player as soon as it's picked up.

Stands for "Bind on Equip". Means that the item can be picked up and
traded, but not if you equip it. Most "greens" have this attribute.

Be right back. Again, you know this already if you've spent more than 5
minutes on the internet.

Generally used by players who prefer [PVP], this is a term given to
players who prefer to attack enemies rather than other players.  I've not seen
much of this used, but it might be more rampant on PVP servers.

Someone who casts spells and other incantations in order to fight,
rather than run up and bash them directly. Mages and priests are good examples
of this, while certain classes like druids can both work as Casters and [Melee]

[Combat Pet]
A pet owned by a player that can be controlled to help fight
enemies. As opposed to other pets, which are non combat. Hunters make great use
of these.

The waiting period before another spell or ability can be used again.
In general, the more powerful the spell, the longer the cooldown.

Lesser used term for an enemy or monster.

An animal that doesn't attack back, such as a deer or rabbit. You can
still kill them, however.

Almost always, this will be the first [Instance] dungeon you're able
to fight in. Located in Westfall.

A spell cast on an enemy or (in PVP) a player. Usually this lowers one
of their attributes or gives them a negative status effect.

Stands for "Damage over Time".

Stands for "Damage per Second". You'll see a lot of talk about this. In
general, higher DPS equals better. Rogues have excellent damage per second,
while classes such as mages tend to lack in this area.

An item found on an enemy. Loot, money, etc.

A term given to certain enemies and quests. Elites act just like any
other enemies their level, only with a lot (and i mean a lot) more health
points. They're just as easy to hit, but they're very strong. These often
require groups to kill. Note that all elite enemies can also be
identified by the gold dragon around their icon in the targeting window.

Sometimes also referred to as "XP", this stands for Experience Points,
those precious numbers you need to get your next level up.

You'll hear differing opinions of what this means, but in general it's
the act of fighting lower level monsters in order to make faster amounts of
gold. Often this is done by fighting lower level humanoids, who drop cloth, as
well as money and often equipment.

On PvE or RP servers, you cannot attack an opposing character unless they have 
flagged themselves available for PvP. This can be done by typing /pvp, 
attacking a pvp flagged enemy, aiding a pvp flagged ally, or entering certain 
areas like opposing cities or the arena in Stranglethorn Vale. Flagged status 
lasts for five minutes.

To kill another player in an uneven way, either by attacking someone many 
levels lower or by teaming up. Also known as "Ganking".

The act of staying in the same area fighting the same enemies for a
very long time. Generally used in coordination with [Farming], in order to
collect faster amounts of money, and sometimes, [EXP].

Stands for "Game Master". They're the big bad scary dudes in charge who can
help you out if you encounter problems.

Used to refer to the colour of "uncommon" equipment or item drops from
enemies. Item value/rarity is referred to by colours, and you'll see the term
greens a lot, as they are worth quite a bit more than your average item, but
common enough that you'll see quite a few in a single span of gameplay.

Stands for "Good to Go". A good one to know, if you're used to this as
"Got to go", and you keep seeing your party members say it. Usually stated by
mages or other mana users who have just recovered their mana.

The amount of [Aggro] an enemy has towards you. Also referred to as
[Threat] sometimes.

Health points, hit points, health. Life. Whatever.

Stands for incoming. Crazy.

Sometimes abbreviated as [Inc], this simply means there's an attack
coming towards you. Genereally used in dungeons or elite quests.

A unique copy of a dungeon in which only you and your party members
are inside. Other groups may still enter the same area, they'll simply be in
another copy of the dungeon. Generally these are elite filled areas, such as the
deadmines or blackfathom deeps.

The act of keeping an enemy/other player out of range where they can
attack you, but in range of your attacks. Very, very effective once mastered. A
real annoyance in [PVP] battles.

Kill stealing/Kill stealer. The act of taking kills from someone else, or
someone who does such. Generally frowned upon.

Stands for "Looking for Group". Another good one to know, especially if
you're heading towards an instance.

Stands for "Looking for More". Used to differentiate between someone
looking for a group, and someone in a group looking to fill that existing group

Stands for "Laugh Out Loud". The bane of many an online player's existance.

Stands for "Low on Mana". Mages should have a macro for this.

To take treasure/drops from a chest/enemy/corpse/object. Sometimes
used in a negative connotation to describe party members who just take

Stands for level. Used by players who hate vowels, apparently.

Closed range attacks and/or attacking style. You're either ranged, or melee.
Yes, some classes or both, but you obviously can only engage in one type
of battle style at a time.

Used to describe any spell that incapacitates an enemy. Abbreviation of
mesmerize. Examples of this would be a Paladin's hammer of justice spell.

Used to refer to anything from your generic enemy, to a monster, to a

An enemy which has a proper name instead of a generic one. Often they will have
a silver dragon around their icon in the targeting window. Note their location, 
as they are often the target of quests. 

Player created term to define the actions Blizzard takes to
modify/weaken different classes in certain updates. It's generally accepted that
this was coined from the popular "Nerf" toy series, which generally consisted of
"soft" versions of every sport possible. Witty, yet overused. Complaining about
nerfing runs rampant, and is usually a good way to get inter-class arguments

Used to describe players who are new to the game. Sometimes used in a
negative connotation, although others use the term [n00b]. Sometimes shortened
to Newb.

Usually short for "Ninja Looting", this refers to the act of players in a party
looting chests or drops with no regard to other players in the party. Don't do 
it, people will hate you. Lots.

Stands for 'non playable character'. Generally used to describe characters
such as innkeepers, vendors, or other 'friendly' characters in cities. Also used
to describe the act of selling junk items to vendors. Often you'll hear players
telling others to "just NPC it" when referring to a low level item.

The more negative form of [Newbie], generally used to describe someone
who is annoying and or rude, rather than low level or new to the game.

Stands for "Price Check". Used when you want to sell something but aren't
sure of the value. Be careful with this one, especially if you get immediate

Also referred to as a Non-Combat pet, these refer to pets who do not aid
in battles. These can range from dogs to parrots, and much much more.

Abbreviation for "Populates", describes the act of an enemy [Spawn].

Stands for teleport. The act of warping around the world via various
means, removing the need to walk. Lazy kids these days.

Here's one that took me a while to figure out. Stands for "Please Send
Tell". You'll see this EVERYWHERE. It's generally used as a prefix by people who
are selling/offering/looking for almost anything. Basically means they want you
to whisper them.

Stands for "Player Versus Environment". Used to describe player versus NPC

Stands for "Player Versus Player". Used to describe...well, player versus
player content. Certain servers are PVP servers, which means you can attack and
be attacked by anyone almost anywhere.

Here's an important one. Pulling describes the act of drawing an enemy
(almost always by use of a ranged attack or spell) away from a large group of
enemies. Used in parties and dungeons almost exclusively, this is a very, very
common tactic used to fight one monster at a time rather than 2-5 of them. Learn
to pull, or don't try to at all, or your party members will get very angry with
you. Common pullers are Hunters, Rogues, or any "tank" class.

Someone who pulls. Generally determined by a party before entering a

A large party formed to attack very, very high level enemies. Almost
always you'll need to be in the 50-60 range to join a raid.

Sometimes also abbreviated as Rez. Both refer to Ressurect, or
Ressurection. Players saying this (generally in a group) are calling out for
one. This will ressurect a player instantly at the spot of their corpse. Very
useful in dungeons.

Used to describe a dead enemy respawning.

Used to describe the act of rolling a die to either win equipment
drops in a group, or for other certain actions. While rolling for items is
automatic, it is very common for groups to agree to "roll for" things such as
chests/ore veins, and other items while grouping. Do not, and I repeat, do not
roll for things you can't use that are bind on pickup. You'll never get in any
groups if you do this, so it's not worth it.

Stands for "Role play" or "Role playing". Some servers are RP only, which
means you may only act within character.

Stands for "Shadowfang Keep", an instance dungeon within Silverpine

Same thing as a respawn, basically.

[Spawn Point]
As you may have guess, this refers to the location in which
enemies spawn/respawn.

A unit of measure that isn't exactly exact. Refers to a full set of
items stacked in your inventory. Some items stack in sets of 20 (EG: Linen
cloth), while others stack in sets of 10 (Ores), or more/less.

Item attribute that means that it cannot be sold or traded to
another player. It is, as the name suggests, bound to your character.

Twofold. A tank is a character with a high amount of armor and HP, who
can take a great deal of hits. Usually used in a party. Good examples of tanks
include Warriors, Paladins, and Druids in Bear Form. Also, "tanking" is referred
to as the act of being a tank. It is usually a warrior's job to tank in parties,
while a class such as a priest or paladin is responsible for healing the tank.

The action of causing a monster to attact you instead of someone else.
Also known as pulling or drawing [Aggro].

Basically the same thing as [Hate].

Stands for "Thank You". Everyone with AOL knows what this is.

Stands for "Welcome Back".

Stands for "Want to Buy". Usually used as a prefix followed by what item
the person is looking for. EG: "WTB Stacks of [Linen Cloth] PST". Get used to
seeing plenty of this.

Stands for "Want to Sell". Used in the same context as [WTB].

Experience points, also referred to as [EXP].

[3. Frequently Asked Questions]

[Game Basics]

Q. What does _________ stand for?
A. Check section 2. If you can't find it
there, e-mail me at jcho449 [at] gmail [dot] com

Q. How much does the game cost?
A. $49.99 for the actual game itself. 1 month of play time is included with
the disks. Subsequent months are $14.99/month, or slightly less if you
buy multiple months at a time.

Q. Do I need a credit card to play this game?
A. No, you can buy prepaid game cards and choose to pay with those.

Q. What system specs. do I need to run this game?
A. Opinions vary, but I would suggest at least 512MB of RAM, a decent Pentium
IV/M or Athlon processor, and a 128MB video card. If you don't want to lag
anywhere, you'll want 1GB of ram and a 256MB graphics card. Get the gig of
RAM, more than anything, if you have the rest, and you'll be fine. Ironforge
lags for EVERYONE now and then.

Q. What is the maximum level?
A. As of now, 60. There are possibilities of extending the level cap, but
no current plans exist, at least that are known to the general public.

Q. What is "Rest EXP"?
A. Rest XP is generated when you log out at an inn or city. Basically, the
longer you don't play, the more rest EXP you get. When rested, you gain double
experience from kills. This does not apply to quests, and the maxium rest EXP
you can save up is 2 1/2 levels, which takes roughly 2 weeks to accumulate.

Q. Are there any "resets" or any downtime?
A. There is no time specific or influenced content in the game, although it
does play in real time. There are no resets, however there is scheduled
maintainence every Tuesday morning that usually lasts from 6-11 AM PST.
Downtime is well known to last longer than that, but the only days you should
run into performance issues will be on tuesdays.

Q. Do I lose my characters after the 10-day trial (Only if your friend gave you
the 10-day free trial card)
A. No. You still keep your old characters should you decide to buy the game
after trying it out on the 10-day trial.

Q. Can I transfer characters between servers?
A. In some cases you may transfer them from higher to lower population
servers, but only in this case. Check blizzard's website for more information
if you are interested.

Q. How many characters can I have total?
A. 50 total.

Q. Can I play this game on multiple computers?
A. Yes, so long as you register your key/name on their website, you can use
your login anywhere around the world 24/7. The only restriction is you may
only be logged in from one location at a time. You can't log in with two 
characters at once.


Q. How many professions may I have at once?
A. You can have two Main Professions, and all three Secondary professions
(Fishing, Cooking, First Aid)

Q. What main professions are there?
A. Skinning, Mining, Leatherworking, Blacksmithing, Herbalism, Alchemy,
Engineering, Enchanting, Tailoring.

Q. Why so many? How should I decide which to pick?
A. There are many various suggested combinations. MOST will work, but a
few of the more popular ones include: Skinning/Leatherworking,
Mining/Blacksmithing, Skinning/Mining, Enchanting/Tailoring,

Q. Should I only use professions my classes can use?
A. Absolutely not. While there are certain professions that greatly help
certain classes, there are a ton of them that are great at generating
revenue regardless of class. That being said, having your human mage be
a blacksmith/leatherworker might not be the best idea.

Q. Ok, so where do I go to learn how to become a _________?
A. This varies greatly dependent on your race, class, and intended profession.
You can get directions to any trainer from a guard in a major city.
It's not hard, trust me.

[Making Gold]
Q. Gold? What's that?
A. At low levels, you might not even have gold yet.
For those unaware:

   100 copper - 1 silver
   100 silver - 1 gold
   100 gold   - A lot of money

Q. So, how do I make gold? And fast.
A. Making gold is almost an inappropriate term. Quite often, you'll be making
silver over and over again, which will turn into gold. Very few drops in this
game sell for a gold or more. When they do, it will almost always be at the
auction house.

Q. Auction House?
A. There are three Auction Houses in the game: Ironforge (Alliance),
Orgrimmar (Horde), and Gadgetzan (Both). These can be either an
excellent place to make money, or a slow, certain doom that results in you
blowing all your money on equipment. Be advised, you WILL want to buy anything
you can use once you get to the auction house. That being said, you can greatly
increase your revenue by visiting here frequently. As a very basic example,
consider linen cloth: A stack of 20 sells for 2s60c to vendors.
While this isn't nothing, the same stack can go from anywhere to 25s-30s
(or more, if you're lucky) at the AH. That's a 1000% increase.
Generally, any profession created items or items needed by professions sell very
well at the AH, as well as any rare items. More detailed specifics will be
covered elsewhere in the guide.

Q. What if I don't wan't to/Can't get to the AH?
A. Well, you have a couple of options: - Save your "greens"/rare items in
your bank - Collect EVERYTHING you see, and NPC it - Try trading to other
players on an individual basis

I highly reccommend saving anything that looks valuable, and eventually selling
it at the auction house, because it most likely is. As far as regular junk is
concerned, you should have no trouble getting 5 bags of some slot value very
early on, so pick up everything you see and sell it. It does add up.

Q. That's all good and all, but so far you're just telling me to "kill stuff".
A. Again, specifics will be covered later. However, in general, if you want
immediate "money", humanoids drop copper/silver, as well as various types of
cloth. Both add up VERY quickly if you decide to "Farm" them for a while. They
also seem to drop equipment more often than other types of enemies, so you can
almost never go wrong with fighting them. Other than that, nothing short of game
experience and selling items to vendors will let you know what enemies are worth
more than others. Spiders tend to have good drops as well. It all depends.

Q. What professions make the most gold?
A. I'm not nearly experienced with all the trade skills, especially at 200+
skill levels, but in general, if you want to make money, especially at lower
levels, you can't go wrong with skinning/mining. Both ore and leather sell
very well at the auction house. Even a stack of copper bars goes for
upwards of 20s/stack.

Q. I followed your advice, and I barely make anything!
A. Context is important:
At level 1-10, you'll be lucky to sell any individual item for more than a
silver. Stacks of things will still sell generally low, as will equipment. Also
consider that killing level 8 humanoids will get you around 30c, while fighting
level 30s can get you upwards of 2s if you're lucky. Don't expect to make gold
at any decent rate before level 20. At level 25 you may start to see gold
amounts increase slowly. The only exception to this is of course, professions.
You can make a bunch of gold mining and skinning early on. At low levels, it's
more about being able to afford skills for your class and professions than
anything else.

Q. When can I get a mount?
A. Level 40. No sooner. Please don't ask how to get one before level 40.

Q. How much do they cost?
A. 90G.

Q. What's this about "Epic Mounts"?
A. Epic Mounts can be acquired only once you've reached level 60, and
they cost an impressive 1000g to buy. They increase your movement speed
by 100%, however. And no, that's not an extra 0.

Q. How am I supposed to afford these?
A. Save. It's really not that hard. I'll include a strategy for earning
gold for your mount later, but I assure you there's no magical formula.
Spending less and selling more will eventually result in you earning 90g.
It picks up a bit as you get closer and closer to 40.

Q. So what do I get for my 90g exactly?
A. Besides looking cool riding around on some random animal, when summoned,
your mount increases your movement speed by 60%.

Q. Is it really worth it?
A. If it wasn't, do you think everyone would be buying one? In short, yes.
However, don't ignore equipment for 20 levels just to get a mount.
Careful balancing will result in you getting your mount and still having
decent equipment.

Q. What are "Greens" exactly? And what about other equipment levels.
A. In this game, equipment is sorted by level/colour. The corresponding
levels and their colours are as follows:

   Poor      - Grey
   Common    - White
   Uncommon  - Green
   Rare      - Blue
   Epic      - Purple
   Legendary - Orange
   Artifact  - ???

As you will find out, greens aren't THAT uncommon, but blue's are much, much,
much harder to find. In general you won't even see your first blue until around
level 20-25, and much later for your first purple. For some reason, these are
referred to as "greens", "rares", and "epics", at least on my server. Why people
chose to alternate between name and colour I'll never know.

Q. What about the colours regarding quests?
A. WoW uses a colour coding system to determine the difficulty of quests:

   Grey   - Much lower levelled than you (very easy)
   Green  - Lower levelled than you (easy)
   Yellow - Near or at your level (normal)
   Orange - 2-3 levels above you (hard)
   Red    - 4+ levels above you (very hard)

Level numbers may not be exact, but in terms of difficulty, it's almost
immediate to tell whether or not a quest is possible at your level.

Q. I notice enemies have colours as well, same thing as with quests?
A. Almost, only a slight difference:

   Grey   - Much lower levelled than you (very easy)
   Green  - Lower levelled than you (easy)
   Yellow - Near or at your level (normal)
   Orange - 3-4 levels above you (hard)
   Red    - 5+ levels above you (very hard)

The difference here is, grey monsters will not give you any experience at all,
and red enemies should basically never be attempted. Orange mobs are possible to
be killed, depending on your class and skill level, but it's best to stick to

Q. Any other odd colour things I should know about?
A. Skill increases work the same way. Other than that, that's all you'll need
to know about the lovely colours in WoW.

   Grey   - No skill gained from this action
   Green  - Very low chance of gaining skill
   Yellow - Almost always gain skill
   Orange - You will gain a skill point from this action
   Red    - Your skill level is too low/You do not have the
            required profession
[4. Game Etiquette]

The way you act while playing the game can have a huge influence on your
character, not to mention everyone else. As with all MMORPGs, since you are
almost always playing with other people - either directly or indirectly, you
should learn some basic forms of online etiquette. This is especially true if
you party frequently or plan to (which is almost required at higher levels). 
While you can get away with being an ass for a while, most players would agree
that eventually it will catch up to you at endgame, and you won't be able to 
progress with your character to the extent that others will. That being said, 
here are a few basic rules of etiquette regarding playing the game in general,
and partying:

[1] Rolling on Item Drops

This is probably the most important form of etiquette when it comes to partying
in WoW. Very often in a party you will be fighting elites, which have a much
higher drop rate of rare items (often greens, sometimes blues). While most of 
these are Bind on Pickup, quite a few are Bind on Equip. It is generally 
accepted that for BoE items, you may roll for everything. However, it is also
common that if you win an item, can't use it, and someone else needs it, you
should give it to the other player instead of being a greedy bastard. For 
example, if you're a level 24 mage in the deadmines who just picked up a nice
mail armor, you should probably let the warrior or paladin in your party use
it if they need it. 

On the matter of BoP items, the rules are slightly different. While the above
are more of suggestions and popular personal opinion, you should absolutely
NEVER roll on a BoP item that you CANNOT use. Now let me clarify what this means
Firstly, if you're a rogue, don't start rolling on that nice blue staff that
dropped from your first instance run. Rolling for items you cannot use is simply
a waste, and since they are soulbound, you won't make that much money at all 
NPCing them. The more common annoyance, is when someone, say a Warrior for 
example, rolls on a really nice leather item. While warriors can EQUIP leather,
this doesn't mean you are to roll for it. Warriors wear mail, plain and simple.
If you roll on a set of armor lower tiered than you're suppose to wear, people
will get pissed, and you will be removed from your party. So don't do it. In 
fact, if you ever see anyone roll on something they don't need, whether they 
win it or not, you should have them removed immediately. You'll quickly learn 
that groups that don't get along, or groups with a bad member in them never 
work well at all.

In summary:
   - Don't roll on items you can't use (BoP)
   - Don't roll on items lower tiered than yours (BoP)
   - Adopt the policy of rolling on everything, but sharing when needed (BoE)

[2] Looting in a party

In parties, the drop system is slightly different. If you're in a party, every
nth drop will be yours to loot, with n being the size of your party. This does
not vary, whether you solo a mob yourself, or don't even fight, if it's your
"turn" to have the drop, it becomes yours to loot. You get access to all the 
items in the drop that are below the group loot threshold (usually greens). This
being said, if you're in the deadmines fighting 3 normal mobs and 2 other elites
at once, don't run off and pick up that nice shiny object if there's two other
elites left to be killed. People that loot before battles are ended are highly,
highly annoying. Most group leaders will at the least warn you for this, some 
just boot you on the spot. Always wait until battles are over to pick up any 
loot, no one's going to steal your drops.

On the opposite end, be sure you always scan an area before leaving it to be
sure you haven't missed any drops. 

[3] Rolling for chests in parties

It's another common policy to "roll" for any chests encountered while in a 
party. Pretty standard procedure. When you find a chest, if no one else has
found it, alert everyone, then roll once all members are there AND you have
cleared the area of any mobs. Rolling for chests while fighting always causes
problems, so just don't do it. To roll for a chest, simply type /random 100,
this will roll a number between 1-100. Highest wins. In the rare case of a tie,
players usually reroll. Winner gets the chest, very simple. Good idea to agree 
on this BEFORE you party, as with most it is implied, but generally there's
at least one player who will just run around looting anything they can, 
including chests. 

[4] Tradeskill items in parties

In some cases, you'll come along tradeskill resources while in a party. These
could be anything from dead monsters (skinning) to veins (mining), or other
resources. These are usually easier to manage, as you'll rarely have more
than 2 of a specific profession in even a 5 man party. It's common to decide
to either roll for these, or simply alternate if there are two of you. Of 
course, if you're the only miner in your party, go crazy when you get to any
veins that might pop up on the map. Just be sure you let your party members
know. Additionally, don't stray too far from your party just to get to one 
more silver vein. When you draw aggro from 2 elites just to up your skill
level by one, the rest of the party may get angry at you. Be careful.

[5] Downtime in parties

Parties consist of many, many different characters. Skinners, alchemists,
rogues, humans, night elves. Most every character has a different playing
style, but in parties the biggest issue is that of downtime and fighting
tempo. While rogues and warriors can almost always charge from battle to
battle with little downtime, classes like mages often need to rest every
few battles to regenerate (almost always this is for mana purposes). If you
are one of the "faster" playing characters, don't get carried away and rush
around without the rest of your party. For those of us who like to play
mana loving characters who need the downtime, try and do your best to 
minimize it by making efficient use of your mana, and using food/water/etc
to speed up downtime. Parties who are good at coordinating downtime are 
generally very effective in reaching their goal.

[6] Know your role

The party etiquette train keeps on rolling. A great way to get people to
hate you while you're partying is to play like a completely ignorant 
person in respect to party role. While you may play one way while soloing,
partying often requires slight changes in your playing style. If you're a
priest, this means you're basically only going to heal players. If no one
needs healing, this doesn't mean you are to burn up your mana attacking 
something that you really won't be doing that much damage against. Other
bad ideas include trying to tank with pretty much any class other than a 
warrior, paladin, or in rare cases, a druid. If you're one of the lower
levelled players in your party, or if you're a cloth or leather wearing
character, it's usually a good idea to let another character pull, thus 
letting them draw most of the aggro/damage from the attack. Mages who try
to pull with ranged spells usually result in the healer of the party spending
way too much mana keeping them alive. For classes such as the paladin or
druid, you'll notice that you'll be expected to work as a "Secondary healer"
often, meaning don't just run in there and bash/cast randomly against 
everything you see. If you're one of only two healers in the party, often one
healer isn't enough. Help with the healing, you'll be greatly appreciated and
find yourself many a future party. There are plenty more class specific roles,
but those get far too advanced for a simple ettiquete lesson. In general, do
what you can to help the party succeed, not just yourself.

[7] Chatting etiquette

Just a few general rules when it comes to chatting in the chatbox. Most are
obvious, but a few are good to know.
   - Don't type in all caps. 
   - Don't yell (/yell) everything. 
   - Don't beg
   - Don't do anything you wouldn't want to have to tolerate
   - Don't whine about other annoying players, this is just as annoying.
     There's an ignore feature, use it :)
   - Don't trade in any channel other than trade. Shift+Click inserting
     items only works on the trade channel (/2) for a reason. 
   - Don't spam things like LFG or WTS over and over. Not only does it often
     take a while to get replies to these, spamming will only get you less
     replies and a lot of annoyed people.
   - Try to use as much English as possible. Seeing "WTS +2BS 4G PST" may
     be an efficient way to get your message out to serious players, but it
     is just a little hard to read. (That being said, there's nothing wrong 
     with using them within reason - EG: "LFG deadmines, PST")
   - Other less useful abbreviations, including but not limited to PLZ, LOL,
     THX, ROFL, and other such things you learned when you were 12 are simply
     annoying. I tend to ignore anyone who overuses these, and so will most 

[8] Kill stealing

Most of us know what it is, no one likes it. Don't follow around another player
taking all their kills just because you don't like the colour socks they're 
wearing. Regardless of your potential dislike of someone else, or perhaps the
simple ability to kill everything before anyone else can touch an enemy, it's
not worth it. 

[9] Random Encounters / Aid

There are plenty of little things you can do while travelling around solo to
improve the general gameplay for others as well as yourself. If you've got any
sort of healing spell and see someone low on health, heal them, especially if
they're in battle. When you're passing someone on the road en route to your 
next location, cast any helpful buffs you may have on them. Almost every time
they'll do what they can in return, which can add up to a nice boost for the 
next 30 minutes. I've had buffs from different players for entire periods of
play before. They pay off now and then.

[10] Why bother?

So what's the point of playing like a decent human being? For one, not everyone
plays like this, so when you do get into a party, if you do a good job and are
reasonably easy to get along with, quite often you'll get on many players'
friends lists, which will result in many many future parties when you log in.
Not only will you no longer have to spend time looking for parties, you'll have
trusted, reliable players to party with as you ascend (usually along the same
rate with them) in level. Being good with people is just as great an asset as an
epic drop is later on in the game, so you might as well make the investment 
starting with your first deadmines run. Besides, most of these are just common
sense, so just start hopping in parties and have fun.

[5. How To]

Ever wondered how to to something? Looking for something a little more 
descriptive than the general faq? Look no further, everything covered below
should be in enough detail to satisfy your desires. Well, almost all of them.

[Keyboard Shortcuts]
While most, if not all of these are in the manual or located somewhere in
the official documentation, there's a few that seem to elude most starting
players, plus, who reads through the 200 page booklets that come with games?
The following is a list of some of the more useful or commonly used shortcuts
in the game. And yes, it did take me a good hour to figure out how to chat in
the general channel.

Chat commands:
Enter       - Bring up the chat window
/1          - Switch to general chat channel
/p          - Party chat
/g          - Guild chat
/say        - Chat (seen only by those around you)
/yell       - Yell
Shift-C     - Toggle combat log
Shift-Click - Insert selected item into chat (Trade channel only)

Battle commands:
Tab     - Target enemies near you
F1      - Target self
F2-5    - Target party members
Shift-F1- Target pet
T       - Attack target
Shift-T - Have pet attack target

Interface/Misc. commands:
Num Lock    - Autorun
Alt-Z       - Show/Hide user interface
Shift-Up    - Cycle upwards through action bar
Shift-Down  - Cycle downwards through action bar
/played     - Show total time played (Very dangerous)

Pulling is pretty much the same either soloing or in a group, but it takes a
bit of skill and practice to get decent at. Unfortunately, it's mainly a 
"feel" thing, so there's only so much you can learn from reading about it, as
opposed to getting out there and trying it.

Firstly, when pulling enemies you need to be aware of their level of what
is usually referred to as "social activity". Certain enemies, like gnolls, are
what you would call "social". They hang out around each other a lot, follow 
each other, and quite often you'll get a group of 2-3 or more of them chasing
after you. Finding out social levels is mainly via experience, or just 
observing the way they act. 

Once you've established the way the little guys act, your goal with pulling is
to ideally "pull" one of them away from what is usually a camp or group of 
anywhere from 3 to.. a lot of mobs. At most, you should pull 2, which is fine
if you can handle 2 at a time. 

There's really very little to the actual act of pulling, most of it involves 
being patient and observing any movement patterns they have. Usually, you 
can find a spot where your target is the farthest away from the rest of the
pack. This is when you're going to want to pull. As for which enemy you 
should target for pulling? If you're attacking a camp, it's best to attack
any enemies on the "outside". Or, in the rare case there's an enemy all to
himself in the middle of a pack, you're going to want to pull that one.
It will almost always be obvious who you want to pull first, and if it
isn't, you probably shouldn't be fighting there anyway. Once you've picked
your target, there's a couple of ways to pull: Ranged pulling, and melee

Ranged pulling is the more common, and definitely more effective. Using a 
bow, gun, spell, or whatnot, you simply fire at the enemy once they are 
the farthest away from the rest of the group. It's that simple, yet it will
take you a while to get used to. If you're using spells, it's best to pull
with your fastest attack, rather than your strongest. Often using a slow
spell will result in the enemy making it closer back to the group by the time
your spell goes off, resulting in all of them going after you just for that
extra damage. 

Melee pulling, which technically isn't pulling at all, is a little harder, but
can be very effective in parties if you have are tanking and don't have ranged.
This is rare, and often limited to only paladins, but useful, as well as in 
solo. Since you can't pull with range, you're going to want to study their 
travel pattenrs, figure out when they're about 3-4 seconds away from the 
point where they WILL be furthest away, and just charge like a madman. By the
time you get there, the mob should be about as far away as it will get from
the rest of the pack. You can then lead the mob further away from the pack,
kill it, and repeat until you've cleared the way. This is most effective 
when soloing, but should the need arise for it while you're partying, you'll
please everyone else by not aggroing 3 enemies at a time.

Tanking is an importance concept to understand. While it only comes into play
in parties (it's rather impossible to "tank" while soloing), it's important to
understand how to play with a tank, or tank yourself, if you are a "tanking"
character. Firstly, characters that should tank are Warriors, Paladins, and
Druids (in bear form). It's widely accepted that Warriors are best at this, but
you shouldn't even attempt this if you're not one of these three classes. It's
just too hard, and even if you pull it off, it's not efficient.

That being said, tanking is a fairly simple concept. Your job is to take all
the hits from an enemy or multiple enemies in a party. If you're thinking,
"Great, i'm just a meat shield", you're only half right. While your primary
job is admittedly to get hit, and hit a lot, you'll also be responsible for 
doing a fair amount of sustained damage. Obviously your primary objective is to
draw fire so the primary damage dealers (EG: Rogues, mages) can do a ton of
damage, but you'll need to do SOME damange in most cases to draw aggro from

Tanking is simply just that, drawing aggro. Your job is to SEEM more
threatening to the enemy than everyone else. There are a couple of ways to do
this. Firstly, you can do a ton of damage to them, and they'll more than 
likely attack you (this is what you're trying to prevent happening to 
players such as mages in your party). You more than likely won't be doing
enough damage compared to others in your party to succeed this way, so
thankfully there are other ways to do this. The second way of drawing aggro is
to heal other players. If you're a paladin this is a decent way of tanking,
especially as a secondary tank. Simply heal those the other healer cannot
in time, and by the time you're getting hit you'll be able to heal yourself
to keep the aggro on you while the rest of your party wails on your attacker.
The third, and often most effective way of drawing aggro is to use skills
devoted to doing just this. For a Paladin, this means using Seal of Fury is
almost a must. For warriors, you'll want to use Taunt, or Roar if you're a
druid in bear form. Warriors in general don't have to worry about generating
threat, it's pretty hard for them not to. 

Finally, while it's not exactly your job to do so, make sure the primary
healer in your party understands it's their job to keep you alive first and
foremost. While they need to take care of the others as well, if you don't
have someone to constantly heal you, all your work tanking will go for
nothing after a few rounds of enemies. Good team communication between
healers and tankers equals good parties. Damage dealers don't need to worry
that much, they just do damage as usual. 

And while this may seem rather obvious, do note that you should be using a
shield and not a two hand while tanking. I've seen too many warriors saying
they're going to tank and then charge at an enemy with a 2H. It's not a bad
idea to have a set of "tanking gear" either on you or in your bank if you
plan on tanking a lot.

I'm not going to go into too much detail here with how to grind, simply 
because a lot of it is level and area specific, and you'll find tips for
such in the Zone Information section. However, when grinding in general,
there are a few basic truths that almost always hold true. Most of these are
fairly obvious, especially to more experienced players, but if you're not
sure what Grinding is, then it can't hurt to take a look at these suggested

Firstly, whatever level you're at, you should generally grind on monsters at 
or near your level. For me, this means fighting enemies no more than one
level above or below you. Why? Monsters too high take too long to kill,
and monsters too low don't give as much exp/loot as higher levelled ones do.
The whole point of grinding is to maximize exp/money/drop gain. Otherwise,
you're just fighting randomly and normally. 

With that in mind, determining which monsters to fight can be a little more
tricky, and that's where the Zone Information guide comes in. In general though
you'll find that you can't go wrong with grinding on humanoids. Every level
gives the same amount of EXP, and humanoids drop not only copper/silver, but
cloth and frequent equipment as well. After a decent day of grinding you'll
probably make out with stacks and stacks of just cloth alone. Even if this is
just linen cloth at lower levels, you'll still be able to sell it for very
nice gains at the auction house. 

Other suggested tips for grinding is to locate an area where there is a vendor
and/or bank nearby to sell vendor trash and store valueable finds. The worst
thing you can do when you're grinding is to have a full inventory. Grinding 
doesn't equal working on tradeskills either, so you're better off putting all
that in the bank for the time being and maximizing your inventory space. The
whole point of grinding is maximizing your gains on a purely time based scale.

Other than that, just kill, kill, kill. It's a good idea to have a few healing
and or mana items on you, depending on your class in order to minimize downtime
If you're grinding properly you should be able to kill as fast as possible
with relatively zero downtime. If you find yourself going too slow or healing 
too much while grinding, you're probably not doing something right. For more
advanced suggestions, such as exact monsters to grind on see the zone info

Farming is fairly similar to grinding, and for that reason I'm going to go into
even less detail on it here. Farming is basically grinding, only less focus is
placed on exp gains. Rather, you'll often be fighting monsters that give you
little or sometimes no exp in order to kill monsters even faster than while
grinding. Why would you do this? This is a great way to gather cloth and money
off of humanoids, farm for equipment drops, or acquire items for certain
professions such as skinning, cooking, and first aid. 

As for how to farm in general, take the basics outlined above in grinding, and
lower the levels you're fighting by 1 or 2. That's really it. Often people will
Grind/Farm at the same time, which is really only saying that they're trying to
make a lot of money and some exp as fast as they can. The same general tactics
apply however, and most people do this every once in a while just to make some
quick cash, or save up for something such as a mount. 

If you're looking for specific quest info, you're better off looking at the
zone information section of the guide. The following is a very, very brief 
introduction on how you should approach questing, as completing quests often
takes on a slightly different play style than randomly wandering around 
fighting mobs.

Firstly, any time you encounter a new town or city, the first thing you should
do is look everywhere. In buildings, behind trees, everywhere. Look for as many
quest givers (Which, if you don't know by now, are the guys with little yellow
!s over their heads). You're out to collect as many quests as you can. Your 
quest log really shouldn't ever be empty. You should always be struggling to 
empty your quest log, not fill it. After you've made your rounds through the
area you're located in, take a look at the difficulty levels of your quests.
It is of my opinion that you should attempt greens and yellows first. Why? 
Aside from the fact that they are obviously the easiest, if you wait a little
later, you may level by then, and then rewards from completing this quest may
become either marginally less or entirely obsolete. You'd hate to go through all
that effort to end up with nothing, wouldn't you? Additionally, you probably
are going to want to initially hold off on any elite quests for now.

Now that you've determined which quests you want to do, take a look at the 
requirements for all of them. If you have any collection/killing quests that
coincide, you're definitely going to want to do those first. Getting 2 
objectives done with one kill is a great way to up your efficiency. Also, if
there are any quests that are centralized to one area, it'd be a good idea to
do those all at once or at first. You don't want to spend time going between
4 different locations for 4 different quests. You'll spend more time in
between travelling than killing or questing, and you'll end up earning less
than you would from just bashing on random enemies.

After you've completed all the lower level quests, return all of them back
and get to work on the harder ones. Often you'll find that many elite quests
are grouped together in an instance dungeon, and you can complete 2, 3, or even
four quests at once in a single party/instance dungeon run. After this, the
orange and red quests you had before will either be easier to attempt due
to a higher level, or you can simply try and find another group to do those.
After you're done with all those, go back, look for any more quests that may
now be newly availible, and repeat the whole process over again. Once you 
have no more quests to do, unless you really like that area for some reason,
you're probably ready to move on and start exploring elsewhere. This strategy
works especially well at lower levels (which I would consider anything under 30)
and is a great way to gain levels early while they still don't require too
great a deal of experience.

Again, most of this will probably come as common sense to you, and if you're
looking for region or quest specific advice, check the zone information section
further down in the guide.

[Using the Auction House]
Using the AH can actually be a bit more complicated than one would think.
While it's extremly easy, and sometimes all too fun to just sit there and
randomly browse around wasting time and hoping you get lucky, there are a
few tactics you can take while buying and selling in order to maximize your
profit. This, obviously, can be split up into two categories: Strategic
buying, and strategic selling.

Buying items isn't really a big inside secret. You'll be just as good at 
level 20 as you will at 60. Half the time, it's just a matter of getting
lucky and finding someone selling something worth 20 gold at 10 silver. It
can happen, but don't count on it. So how are you supposed to be effective
at buying in the AH? There's a few things you can do to end up getting 
what you want, and still having some gold left in your pocket.

Firstly, buyouts are your friend. There's nothing worse than placing a bid
on something you really want only to come back an hour later and find out
that not only were you outbid, but the auction is over. If you see multiples
of the same item for sale, always go for the one with a buyout. In some cases
you shouldn't even bid on the item, you should just buy it immediately if
this seems like a good deal. I can't tell you what a good deal is, as there
are too many good and too much fluctuation in pricing, so you'll just have to
develop that skill on your own. However, if you see a buyout that's priced 
considerably below the rest of the bids/buyouts on the same item, odds are 
that it is a pretty good deal. As far as bidding goes, you can usually win
a few auctions by bidding on them during offpeak hours. If there's an auction
that's nearing its end, and has a low bid, odds are you don't need to buy it
out and can just bid on it normally. This is especially true on tuesday
mornings, just before the servers go down for maintainence. Shady? Perhaps,
but use every advantage you can get to get a good deal out of the AH. 

Selling, on the other hand, you've got a little bit more involvement in
a successful auction sale versus getting lucky with a level 40 item for a
single gold. Firstly, as stated above, buyouts are your friend. NEVER auction
an item without some kind of buyout, even if it's higher than you think 
people are willing to pay. Note: this does not mean you should put buyouts for 
your stacks of linen cloth at 1g. No one is ever going to pay that much for
low level items, so please stop trying to trick us. However, if your starting 
bid is 2g, there's nothing wrong with putting a buyout at 10g. You never know
how desperate someone might get, and it's better than having no buyout at

Secondly, choose your auction duration times wisely. If you're selling a stack
of linen cloth, there's not much to it. On my server, these go from 20-30s a
stack. I usually sell for around 25s a stack in order to sell them fast. This
means that you won't be wanting to put this up for a full 24 hours. It costs
too much to post the auction, and no one wants to wait 24 hours for a stack 
of cloth. You're best off putting the minimum bid almost (or as I do), equal
to the buyout. 2 hours will almost always work for these kinds of auctions.
On the other hand, if you just found a high level rare off an enemy that 
sells to the NPC for a couple gold, you're ALWAYS going to want to place the 
duration of that item for 24 hours. It almost always takes longer to find
someone who wants a piece of equipment rather than a tradeskill item, so 
always go for the longest amount of time possible. 

Additionally, whenever you're selling any item, especially a high level rare,
it's reccomended that you search for the item first using the search engine
to see what everyone else is selling that item for. This way you can not only
find out the going price for the item, but if you want to undersell a bit to
guarantee a quicker sale you'll be able to do that too. Other than that, you
just have to be patient enough to wait for that gold to start rolling in.
After a few rounds of selling you'll figure out what sells well and fast and
what doesn't. 

[6. Zone Information]

This will more than likely be a very large, very broad section devoted to 
various areas within the game. For now, it's mainly a shell and will take a
while to update, so be patient. If you'd like to help with information, send
it in in similar format to what is listed below. What you'll eventually find
here will be a comprehensive listing of every region in the game, including
suggested level range, basic quest help, profession advice (ore locations, etc)
levelling tips, and other useful things. Basically, if you're wondering where
to level your character, various skills, or grind, look here. Sorted by area
for now, so you'll have to search by that, not level.

[Eastern Kingdom]

Zone information regarding the eastern continent, appropriately named the
Eastern Kingdom.

Suggested Level Range: 11-20
Suggested Professions: Skinning, Mining, Cooking
General Info: Westfall is an excellent "second area" for any human characters
coming out of Elwynn Forest. Amazingly, just west of Elywnn is where you'll
find Westfall - so it's not only level appropriate, but amazingly easy to
access early on in the game. For some reason I found myself coming here with
other alliance characters as well - I even brought a Nightelf all the way over
just because I like the area so much. 

I highly reccomend westfall if you're planning on levelling up either the 
skinning or cooking professions. It is an excellent area to get some very good
ingredients for many, many cooking recipies, which are very easy to acquire. 
There's also a fair amount of skinnable enemies ranging from 10-17, and the
hills are populated with a fair amount of ore as well. There are a few herbs
laying around here and there, but you'll find Elywnn Forest to be more rich in
those, from my experiences.

For those really interested in grinding early on for cooking skill, make sure
you go after Goretusks (Both young, normal, and great variations). These drop
Chunks of Boar Meat, Goretusk Livers, and Boar Ribs -- all of which are the
only require ingredient in many recipies ranging from early on up to around
110 cooking skill. If you're dedicated and get the recipies from quests or
buy them from a bvendor/AH, you can level your cooking from practically 0 to
125 just off these alone.

For those not so hot on cooking, Westfall offers many additional upsides as
well. Humanoids here range from 10 to 20ish, which means you'll have plenty
of those to keep you supplied with cloth and copper drops for quite a few 
levels. The defias drop many a nice piece of equipment early on as well,
and you'll find yourself killing quite a few of them in the many various
quests anyways. Some of these even stack, giving you the opportunity to
complete 3 or 4 quests in a single trip.

For those of you interested in mining, westfall is an even greater asset
to you, as it is more than likely the first area you'll find decent rates of 
tin spawns, especially if you're a human. These can be found in the dagger
hills, as well as the mines to the west coast of westfall. Add up all the
profession opportunities, and levelling and questing aside there's got to be
SOMETHING for you to do here profession related, and all of them are quite
profitable especially this early on.

With all that said about professions, there's still the matter of levelling,
which i touched on a bit earlier, and more importantly questing. Westfall
provides some great quest opportunities and rewards early on, starting with
some lower end quests based on the various farm around the area, and ending
with a series of quests based on fighting the Defias, whih ultimately leads
to the famed Deadmines, which is more than likely the first Instance Dungeon
you'll enter, especially as a human. You'll find some great rewards in here,
and you'll be more than ready for it by the time you're done with the rest
of westfall. That being said, take a look at some of the quests highlighted

[Quests in westfall coming soon - sorry for the delay]


[Coming soon - unfortunately. This while take a whiiile.]

[7. Administrivia]

Boring, yet required info.

[Legal Information]

This document ©2005 Jdude84. You may not use this document in any other way
besides printing and using it to help you through this game. If you wish to use
this for any other purpose, please contact me at jch0449 [at] gmail [dot] com

All trademarks and copyrights contained in this document are owned by their
respective trademark and copyright holders.


Blizzard / World of Warcraft [.com]
Basic game information, confirmation of various information
(game abbreviations, etc)

GameFAQs / GameFAQs.com
Hosting the guide.

Untermensch [Server: Thunderhorn]
Provided me with some useful abbreviations/definitions, as well as slight
additions to existing ones (EG: Icon around elites)

[Version History]

0.1 - March 28th, 2005

Initial version. Basic game info/terms/F.A.Q. up. Coming soon: More in depth
guides pertaining to FAQ topics, more FAQ answers, as well as new sections
devoted to tradeskills. Much more planned in the more distant future as well. 
E-mail anything you'd like to see included in the guide.

0.11 - March 30th 2005

Slight revision. Formatting problems fixed. Game Etiquette section added and
potentially completed. Am I missing anything? FAQ/General terms updated with 
a couple new of each. Began work on "How To" and "Zone Information" sections, 
which at the moment are the only incomplete sections of this guide.

   To complete:
   - How To
   - Zone Information
   Future content:
   - Class guide
   - Tradeskills 
   - Other sections "down the line", as blizzard would say
0.12 - April 1st, 2005
Game Etiquette, FAQ, terms section updated. How to section completed in its
current state, although more How To's will be added either at request or my
discretion. But for now it's "complete". Started work on Zone Information.
Future content to be added by the next two updates.

[Contact Info]

I can be reached via e-mail at jch0449 [at] gmail [dot] com. Preferably, it'd be
nice if you put "WoW" or "World of Warcraft" or "Warcraft", or something
pertaining to the game in the subject of your e-mail. Additionally, I can be
reached via AOL IM, at JCLT811. I currently do not have an allow list, so this
may change. Furthermore, I'm currently in college, so my availibility to
answering e-mail and/or IMs may vary week to week and throughout the week. So
please be patient, and I'll try to get back to you ASAP.

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