FAQ/WALKTHROUGH - Guide for Need for Speed: ProStreet

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-----------------------TABLE OF CONTENTS------------------------

1) - INTRODUCTION                                     (NFSPS001)
   1.1) About the Author                              (NFSPS002)
   1.2) Contact Information                           (NFSPS003)
   1.3) Copyright Information                         (NFSPS004)
   1.4) About the Game                                (NFSPS005)

2) - GETTING STARTED                                  (NFSPS006)
   2.1) Default Controls                              (NFSPS007)
   2.2) Transmission Options                          (NFSPS008)

3) - THE GAME                                         (NFSPS009)
   3.1) Changes                                       (NFSPS010)
   3.2) Race Modes                                    (NFSPS011)    
   3.3) The Cars                                      (NFSPS012)
   3.4) The "Blueprint" concept                       (NFSPS013)
4 - THE WALKTHROUGH                                   (NFSPS014)
  4.1) The Story                                      (NFSPS015)
  4.2) Grip + Grip Class Races                        (NFSPS016)
  4.3) Sector Shootout                                (NFSPS017)
  4.4) Time Attack                                    (NFSPS018)
  4.5) Drag Racing                                    (NFSPS019)
  4.6) Wheelie Competitions                           (NFSPS020)
  4.7) Speed Racing                                   (NFSPS021)
  4.8) The Elite Kings                                (NFSPS022)
    4.8.1) Ray Krieger, The Grip King                 (NFSPS023)
    4.8.2) Karol Monroe, The Drag King                (NFSPS024)
    4.8.3) Nate Denver, The Speed King                (NFSPS025)

5 - TIPS AND HINTS TO BECOME A D.K.                   (NFSPS026)
  5.1) The Art of Drifting                            (NFSPS027)
  5.2) Basic Tips                                     (NFSPS028)
  5.3) How to Finesse it                              (NFSPS029)
  5.4) Recommended Cars + Tuning Sets                 (NFSPS030)
  5.5) Aki Kimura, The Drift King                     (NFSPS031)

6 - RYO WATANABE - THE SHOWDOWN KING                  (NFSPS032)

7 - WHAT NEXT?                                        (NFSPS033)  
  6.1) Ryo's Records                                  (NFSPS034)
  6.2) ProStreet 2?                                   (NFSPS035)

8 - FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS                        (NFSPS036)

9 - RACING GLOSSARY                                   (NFSPS037)

10 - VERSION HISTORY                                  (NFSPS038)

11 - ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS/CREDITS                         (NFSPS039)

Note - For quick access press Ctrl+F and type in the code for the desired 
section. For example, Ctrl+F and NFSPS036 takes you directly to the FAQs.

1.----------------INTRODUCTION (NFSPS001)-----------------------


Welcome, everyone, to my second FAQ/Walkthrough. This guide should be able to
answer any and every 
question you have regarding Need For Speed: ProStreet. Keep in mind, if you have
any suggestions,
criticisms, or would like to add to this guide, just use the contact information
below to reach me.

1.1 - About the Author -------------------------------(NFSPS002)

My name is Chengaiz Khan, but on the forums of www.cheathappens.com (of which this
guide is posted),
I am known as Chingy42007, a.k.a. the REAL Drift King. I have an uncanny knowledge
of cars, on and 
off the track - I can analyse, assess and exploit any potential weaknesses and/or
advantages. This
knowledge has come partly from my own personal experience on the racing circuit,
but also thanks to
my dad, who planted the seed for my love of cars. Like I said, this is my second
guide, and to top
it all off, I'm only 16.

1.2 - Contact Information ----------------------------(NFSPS003)

Like I said, if anyone has any queries, criticisms, or any general
suggestion/contributions to this
guide, you can contact me through any of the following:

1) - You can send me a Private Message from my personal profile page on
www.cheathappens.com. Just 
     copy and paste this URL into your address browser:
     NOTE: you must be a member of CheatHappens to be able to do this.
Registration is fast, easy, 
     but most importantly: FREE.

2) - You can contact me via e-mail. You can email me your suggestions to:
     a) - [email protected]
     b) - [email protected]

1.3 - Copyright Information --------------------------(NFSPS004)

Chingy42007© 2007 onwards, all rights reserved. It is forbidden to reproduce,
reiterate, copy and redistribute this guide to ANYONE without my permission. There
be severe consequences for anyone who does. Right now the only site who has
permisson to
display this guide is www.cheathappens.com, and all sites affiliated with
If you find this guide on any other site, please tell me immediately so I can deal
with it.

1.4 - About the Game ---------------------------------(NFSPS005)

Need For Speed: ProStreet is the eleventh game in the whole NFS franchise, and it
has a LOT to boast
about. It has revolutionized NFS games - gone are the days when you can select
free roam and just
smoke any old hick in a badly tuned Mustang in a short, adrenaline-pumped, illegal
street race. EA
has seen the recent promotion of illegal street racing and has decided to
"legalize" its racing
franchise. ProStreet now comprises of legal "Race Days", where people face off in
closed streets/tracks
to take one step closer in becoming the "Street King". 


2.------------------GETTING STARTED (NFSPS006)------------------


Well, I know that many people rush into the game without thinking, eager to play
with their latest 
purchase. Well, you people are in luck. This section is just for you, seeing as
you haven't bothered
with the manual.

Of course, what I've said above might as well be completely untrue. Which means
I'm wasting my time
typing this.... oh well.

2.1 - Default Controls ------------------------------(NFSPS007)


2.2 - Transmission Options ---------------------------(NFSPS008)

The transmission scheme works a bit differently now. Don't worry, the good old
auto 'box is still
there, but manual has taken on a new look. Here's the three options:

AUTOMATIC - Simple, easy, lazy-boy racing. The computer does the shifting for you,
you concentrate
            on the driving and winning.

MANUAL - The same manual you've been used to since Most Wanted. Use the right
stick to do the shifting,
         the left to do the steering. It's not rocket science, nor is it an
F-grade piece of work. 
         It is possible to finesse this skill to your advantage.

MANUAL CLUTCH - This is the new variant. Aimed at champion ProStreet-ers, this
really challenges 
                your controller capability. In order to shift up an down, you must
hold the clutch
                and then use the stick to shift up and down. Just like the real
thing. You wanna be
                a pro? Then use this.


3.------------------THE GAME (NFSPS009)-------------------------


This section will highlight and explain the basics of the game, from
differentiations of gameplay
right down to the individual customization aspects of your cars. Hopefully you
will get a clear 
understanding and view of the differences between the NFS Carbon, and NFS
ProStreet. Also, it should
boost your knowledge of the game a tad as well. =)

3.1 - Changes ----------------------------------------(NFSPS010)

A number of features, some well loved, some well hated, have been removed in NFS
ProStreet from its
predecessors due to EA's revolutionisation of the franchise from illegal street
racing to legal street 
racing. EA have done this mainly because of the bad image they were imposing,
encouraging illegal
street scene activities, and indeed, you will find a LOT of tuners on the street
these days. So, in a 
bid to attempt to lower the number on the illegal scene, EA have taken on a new,
fresh approach to
their highly successful and influential franchise in the form of legal street
racing. Here's a list
of the changes:

ADDITIONS ------------------------

WINDTUNNEL SYSTEM - This feature helps you to tune the aerodynamics of the car to
acheive a better
                    top speed, downforce, lateral grip, acceleration and
cornering. By tuning various
                    aspects of the car, i.e. the spoiler and bumpers, you can
reduce drag, add 
                    downforce and help get your car to the peak of it's performance.

DRAG RACING - Never really has been new to the NFS franchise, but it makes a
return after a year-long
              abscence in Carbon. The way it's run is different, but it's a warm
welcome back to one
              of the game modes that really made Need For Speed very enjoyable.

EXTENDED VISUAL CUSTOMIZATION - Autosculpt is back and better than ever, with it
available for every
                                single exterior aftermarket part, including rims,
hoods, spoilers and
                                full body kits. The vinyls and decals have been
given a thorough going
                                over, and over 3 trillion possible combinations of
vinyls are available
                                at your disposal.

TUNING - Again, not exactly new, but the last time we could last change our damper
settings was way back 
         in NFS Underground 2. For racing purists, it's a delight, and a reason to
rejoice, for those
         less keen on the technical stuff it's another fun thing to play around with. 

REMOVALS -------------------------

COPS - as stated before, NFS has gone legal and therefore gone are the days where
you can just roam
       out of the garage and into a high-thrill, high-speed pursuit. If anything,
the cops help 
       organize the race days, but you don't see that in the game. =P

FREE ROAM - all racing in the game takes place on closed off street roads and/or
on professional 
            race tracks. This is exactly how real legal racing is done, and much
to the dismay of
            fans of the last 4 installments, free roam, too, says farewell indeed.
            to be fair, it never did really contribute a whole lot to NFS games in
the first place.

SUPERCARS/EXOTICS - sure, one or two remain but since ProStreet was meant to
emulate a true tuner scene
                    to start with, it would just be downright unrealistic to have
a legal race day 
                    filled with nothing but Zondas and Enzos. Therefore most of
the cars in the game
                    are popular, on-demand tuners of the street scene. Kind of
ironic, if you think
                    about it.

3.2 - Race Modes -------------------------------------(NFSPS011)

There are four main race modes, with a couple having different categories within
the actual race mode
just to keep the game interesting, instead of having the race the same old four
races over and over

GRIP RACING ----------------------

Basically just plain old circuit racing. For racing purists, "Grip" racing is a
more accurate term,
but for the rest of the NFS fans, it's just plain old "circuit" racing. There are
a few variants
of this mode of racing:

GRIP - the basic, "run what ya brung" race. Everyone pools into the race,
regardless of horsepower,
       drivetrain, transmission, and whatever other variable you care to mention.

GRIP CLASS - the cars in the race are split into two groups, the groups usually
determined by horsepower. 
             Group A is the weaker of the groups, cars usually ranging from
200-500 BHP. Group B, 
             however, showcases and highlights the big guns. Cars can reach
anywhere up to 600-1000 BHP,
             and it really is something to witness and experience.

SECTOR SHOOTOUT - the track is divided into 4 sections. As soon as you enter a
section, a point timer
                  starts ticking down from 1000 to 0. You must get through the
section checkpoint (at
                  the end of the section) before the clock hits 0. As soon as one
section ends, the next
                  begins. There are 3 laps, and usually a good score is around 400
points/sector, around
                  1600-2300 total.

TIME ATTACK - simple, you against the clock. Except there's other guys on the
track as well who are
              competing against the clock itself, and not necessarily you. Lowest
lap time wins. 3
              laps to do it. Simple.

RECOMMENDED CARS: Porsche 911 Turbo, Mitsubishi Evo X, Pagani Zonda F, Ford Sierra
Cosworth RS

DRAG RACING ----------------------

You know what this is. A simple straight-line race from A to B, whoever reaches B
first wins. Except
that there are 4 other drag races going at the same time, and in the end whoever
gets the best drag
time wins. There are 3 heats, or 3 "laps" if you wish, to obtain your drag time.
Usually, a good drag
time is around 7-8 secs. 

There are a few variants, too.

1/4 MILE DRAG - a straight line race spanning 400m.

1/2 MILE DRAG - a straight line race spanning 800m. Timing your shifts and NOS is

WHEELIE COMPETITION - this is done on a 400m drag strip, and the key to success is
for your car to
                      maximise its horsepower and torque, and also your ability to
hold it for as
                      long as you can. On average, a wheelie car has in excess of
700 BHP. And when
                      it comes to the wheelie itself, when you see the nose come
down a little, just
                      punch the nitrous and it will shoot back up for another 100m
or so.

RECOMMENDED CARS: Shelby GT500 (new, for drag), Ford Mustang GT (drag), Pontiac
GTO (drag), Dodge
                  Charger R/T (wheelie), Dodge Challenger R/T (wheelie), Toyota
Supra (wheelie).

DRIFT RACING ---------------------

This is all about getting your car sideways. Points are awarded on the angle of
your drift, the
speed of the drift and how long you can hold it for. It is by no means hard to get
used to - in
fact it is quite the opposite. However, that doesn't mean everyone can drift like
a god. It takes
proper skill and brains to learn just how to finesse a drift, and how to complete
whole tracks in
just one, solitary drift. More info in the section: "Tips and Hints to become a D.K.".

RECOMMENDED CARS: Toyota Supra, COrvette C6, Mazda RX-7, BMW Z4 M Coupe, Shelby
GT500 '07


High-speed racing over a very long piece of tarmac. It's far more easier to slip
up and total your
car here in these races than in any other race. You slip at 200mph and it'll all
be over in 200
milliseconds. Trust me, you don't want failure here. The key to every good speed
car is the 
driver - his/her ability to keep the car stable at high speeds is the key to
success. Course, it
helps if the car is of the right caliber as well. Basic necessities of any speed
car should be:

- 4WD: this helps stability. Big time.
- Weight: helps to keep the car on the road. You try hefting 1500kgs in the air at
- Power: What's the point of you being in the race in the first place if you can't
top 200mph?

More importantly, it's essential to know the track. If you don't know where the
next hairpin is, you
won't have the time to react quick enough at those speeds, meaning your race is
over. Knowledge of 
the track inside-out is essential to success. Period.

Here are the variants:

SPEED CHALLENGE - A to B, whoever reaches there first wins. Simple.

TOP SPEED RUN - Remember Checkpoint from last year, and Speedtrap from Most
Wanted? It survives to 
                this day. Go through the checkpoints, the driver with the the
overall highest 
                cumulative speed wins.

RECOMMENDED CARS: Pagani Zonda F, Audi RS4, Nissan GT-R R35, Lamborghini
Murcielago LP640, Subaru
                  Impreza STi

3.3 - The Cars ---------------------------------------(NFSPS012)

Here's the full car list, booster pack cars and Collector's Edition cars as well.


1999 Acura Integra Type R
2004 Acura Integra Type R
2006 Audi S4
2007 Audi TT
2003 BMW M3 E46
2007 BMW M3 E92
2007 Z4 M Coupe
2006 Cadillac CTS-V
2008 Chevrolet Camaro Concept
1967 Chevrolet Camaro SS
1970 Chevrolet Chevelle SS
2006 Chevrolet Cobalt SS 
1967 Chevrolet Corvette C2 (Sting Ray) 
2005 Chevrolet Corvette C6
2006 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 
1967 Dodge Charger R/T
2006 Dodge Viper SRT-10
1996 Ford Escort RS Cosworth 
2005 Ford Focus ST 
2006 Ford GT 
2003 Ford Mustang GT 
1967 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 
2006 Ford Shelby GT500 
1999 Honda Civic Hatchback 
2006 Honda Civic Si
2003 Infitini G35 Coupe 
2006 Lamborghini Murcielago LP640 
2006 Lotus Elise 
1995 Mazda RX-7
2006 Mazda RX-8 
2006 Mazdaspeed 3 
1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse 
2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX MR-edition
2008 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X
1989 Nissan 240SX 
2006 Nissan 350Z 
1999 Nissan Skyline R34 
1999 Nissan Silvia S15 
2008 Nissan GT-R PROTO/R35 
2006 Pagani Zonda F 
1970 Plymouth Hemi Cuda 
1965 Pontiac GTO 
2006 Pontiac GTO 
2008 Porsche 911 (997) GT2 
2007 Porsche 911 (997) Turbo 
2006 Porshe Cayman S 
2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STI 
1986 Toyota Corolla GT-S AE86 
1998 Toyota Supra 
2006 Volkswagen Golf R32 


2002 Acura NSX
2006 Acura RSX
2005 Audi RS4
1971 Dodge Challenger R/T
2006 Ford Mustang GT S-197
2006 Lexus IS350
2007 Pontiac Solistice GXP
2006 Volkswagen Golf GTi mk5


2006 Aston Martin DBR9
2008 Audi R8
2007 Bugatti Veyron 16.4
2001 Honda S2000
2006 Koenigsegg CCX
1994 McLaren F1
1970 Plymouth Road Runner
2005 SEAT Leon Cupra R

** - the booster pack is available for download at XBL Marketplace. Two cars of
choice are free, but
     the rest are valued at 80 Microsoft Points each.

3.4 - The "Blueprint" Concept ------------------------(NFSPS013)

Basically, your car's blueprint is a schematic which labels and memorizes your
car's performance, 
visuals and tuning schemes. You can have 3 different blueprints for you car, but
if you start a
new blueprint you have to purchase all the parts again. Including performance. 

So for example you may have a blueprint which fully maximizes your car's
performance so that Ryo,
the showdown king, is a piece of cake, but you may have one that stretches your
artistic capacity,
where the car is covered in intricate streams of decals and vinyls into one
massive, car-shaped 
painting. It's up to you what you want to do with your blueprints. Personally, I
only need one.
And I think that's enough, seeing as I neither have nor want the money for another
schematic on a

However, there is a tuner leaderboard on XBL. You can share your best blueprint
with the rest of the
world, and if you are good enough for it to be shared by a person whom you shared
it with, you can
hit the very top of the leaderboards. The more your blueprint gets shared, the
better recognition you'll
have among fellow ProStreet-ers. Then expect all the challenges to come pouring
in, and you can choose
the stakes - MS points, Career credit, pink slips even.


4.-------------THE WALKTHROUGH (NFSPS014)-----------------------


In this section I will illustrate my very best tips I can give you for each race
mode, and not 
necessarily a step-by-step path on how to beat the game. Since there are many
races, there are 
many different ways to complete them. And it would take me months to explain each
and every track
and driver, so I will give you the best fool-proof advice I can give that seems to
work for almost
any track and race. Also, I'll be going over the story....below.

4.1 - The Story --------------------------------------(NFSPS015)

You are Ryan Cooper. An ex-pro on the illegal street scene. Now you've taken a
liking to the legal
street scene, and you have plans to not only dominate the very best, but to blow
every record away,
take down all the kings and become the next Street King.

Unfortunately, Ryo Watanabe, the Showdown King, has seen you race and he feels
like he's "being paid
just to watch you drive that piece of junk he (you) calls a car". Meaning he
doesn't like you. Mainly
he sees you as another wannabe punk who can't drive for their life, and that you
pose no real threat
at all. Or so he claims.... it could be he's plain scared. That definitely is the
case later on.

So after that little "proving" race that you obviously aced with no problem, it's
you and your Nissan 
S13 240SX. You are ready to take on the world, take down Ryo and the Elite Kings,
and claim the title 
that is so rightfully yours. You are now on your way to becoming the next Street
King of the world.

(Not much of a storyline it must be said, but it's way better than that of Carbon
- which was very 
vague indeed)

4.2 - Grip + Grip Class Races ------------------------(NFSPS016)

Firstly, you need a car that has, on the stat bars, more handling than power. Most
of these tend to
be all-wheel-drive cars, a.k.a. 4WDs. Handling is essential in grip races, because
it's all about
going round a track, and not necessarily in a straight line. That's not to say
power doesn't help,
after all, you need quite a bit if you need to get round the track quicker than

There are a couple of ways of taking each and every corner:

- SLOW IN, FAST OUT: basically you approach the corner under braking, let go of
the accelerator, turn
                     in and then when you see the exit, you floor it. It's
effective, but it's some-
                     times it's not the most practical or the most viable one.

- OUT-IN-OUT: approach the corner on the outside, then sharply turn in to the
utmost inside (apex)
              of the turn. Accelerate on the way out, and don't turn much so that
you occupy the 
              outside of the exit of the turn. This is usually the fastest way of
going through a 
              corner, as the exit demands you to accelerate more than steer.

- POWERSLIDE: this is advanced, and is very similar to drifting. Your ABS,
Traction Control and Stability
              Management must all be switched off, as they will interrupt your
slide. Also, your car
              must be a rear-wheel-drive car, otherwise it won't work.
              To initiate the slide, rush into a corner, brake a little, and do
not turn the wheel
              until the last possible moment. Then, steer aggressively into the
turn, and maintain
              your inertia using the throttle and a bit of counter-steer (turning
in the opposite
              direction of the turn). Continue this to the exit, and straighten
your car up.

              Be warned - if this is not executed correctly, you will most likely
spin out and
              damage your car. Asides from that, if the slide is not held
correctly at the very end,
              it will position your car at an awkward angle, meaning it's more of
an effort to straighten
              up, and more time-consuming. This means valuable seconds can be lost
while attempting

- BLOCKADE: Occupy the middle line entering the corner, going through the corner,
and exiting the 
            corner. This is often the most frustrating maneuvre for your
opponents, as they can't
            overtake without inflicting damage to the cars. In professional
racing, this maneuvre
            is often used to psych out the opponents, as it frustrates and angers
the driver, then
            the driver slips up and makes a mistake. Driving whilst angry = bad.

4.3 - Sector Shootout --------------------------------(NFSPS017)

Speed through the corners is the fundamental key to win sector shootouts. So
obviously, you know I'm
going to be screaming 4-wheel-drive. Which I am. Other than that, to carry speed
through the corners
your car needs to light, and preferably with a short wheelbase, for improved
turning radius. I'm
talking about small cars here. Very small cars, but not necessarily 4wds.

Here's a recommended list of cars:

- Audi S3
- Audi TT
- BMW Z4 M Coupe
- Ford Escort Cosworth RS
- Lotus Elise
- Pontiac Solistice GXP

Generally speaking, the lighter the car, the greater the acceleration. There are
many good cars out
there, but in Sector Shootout only a few really stand out. The cars above all do,
and for good reason.
They follow the two main things needed in SS races: speed through corners, and a
small frame, for 
added acceleration. If your car follows these two rules, and provided you have
some skill, then 
there's no reason why you shouldn't lose.

4.4 - Time Attack ------------------------------------(NFSPS018)

Basically, Time Attack is the culmination of all grip racing advice. You basically
need the
same ingredients as SS races, in terms of cars, and you need to know the right
techniques for the
right corners. If you consistently maintain a certain pace through the track with
these elements
then you should prevail quite easily. 

Remember you are given 3 laps. I advise you to use the flying lap as a quick
observation of the 
entire track, find the appropriate lines through the corners, and make mental
notes of when to brake
etc. This might sound a lot on the first lap, and you can extend this into the
second if you want.
Generally speaking, your second and third laps are the fastest, because you don't
start the lap from
a standstill. So if you take two for observation, make sure you put what you've
learned from your
demo runs into practice, because you only have one shot at it.

Of course, you could restart the race, but that's pretty much cheating. =P

4.5 - Drag Racing ------------------------------------(NFSPS019)

For this, traction and power is everything. One cannot exist without the other,
however. For example,
a car has 800 BHP, but it only has a traction of level 2. What's the point of
having all that power
in the car when it cannot be utilised effectively and efficiently due to the lack
of traction? 
Instead of a potential 1/4 mile time of under 8 seconds, you will most likely get
something around
11 seconds. That's how vital traction is. 

It's the same vice-versa, too. You can have 300 BHP with traction level 4, but you
won't get that
sub-8 seconds time you were gunning for. Instead, you will get everything the
engine can deliver,
which in this instance isn't very great. Most likely, you will get around 11-12
seconds for the 1/4
mile. Now imagine, if 300 BHP can do an 11-sec time, what can 800 BHP do? Sub-8
sec time, sub-7 even?

That's why, when it comes to buying parts for potential drag cars, you must ALWAYS
upgrade your 
traction before your power, period. Traction-related parts include suspension
upgrades, brakes and
tyres. Make sure these are maxxed out before you start on the engine upgrades. In
order of importance,
here's how I recommend you buy your power upgrades:

- engine - no point drag racing without cutting edge tech in your ride's engine

- drivetrain - a good gearbox is the key to fast shifting, and utilising the
engine's power effectively.

- NOS - give yourself that extra edge by using NOS at the right time, at the right
speed. Helps to 
        lower your drag time a LOT.

- Turbo/Supercharger - give your ride that boost it's needed, as this will boost
power up by at least
                       50 BHP or more. It's not really needed, but if you really
want it, I don't see
                       why not.

For the actual dragging, I would just say practice makes perfect. Obviously the
more perfect shifts
in a run the better, and also know when to use the NOS. For most cars in the
standing 1/4, it's 
around 3rd or 4th gear. For the standing 1/2, it's usually last gear.

4.6 - Wheelie Competitions ---------------------------(NFSPS020)

Unlike drag racing, power is dominant over traction. A proper wheelie is executed
when the engine
delivers and overload of torque to the rear tires, and the traction of the tyres
in question fails
completely to deliver the power to the road, thereby wheelspin occurs, and the
desired speed is not
achieved. More wheelspin is achieved than speed, and should the engine deliver
quite a LOT of torque,
the wheelspin will increase sufficiently so that it raises the car's nose
completely. This is called
a WHEELIE - when the car's torque output overloads the tires' traction and
generates wheelspin great
enough to lift the front of the car off the ground altogether.

So now you know how a wheelie works, you should have some general idea how to tune
and buy your 
wheelie car. Obviously, the car must have a LOT of power as a stock car and must
have really rubbish
handling as well. There's only one class of cars that comes to mind at the thought
of that description - 
muscle cars.

The Dodge Charger R/T and Challenge R/T are obvious contenders. What I often have
done with these
two is buy all the level 3 power performance upgrades, and that's it in the tuning
department. I 
might spend a moment or two in the visual department prettying the car up, but as
far as tuning goes,
the car was done. Maybe a level one suspension and tire package, just so it gets
off the line a 
little better. But as a general rule when it comes to tuning any potential wheelie
cars: power 
packages first, traction packages if ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY.

4.7 - Speed Challenges + Top Speed Runs --------------(NFSPS021)

This is probably the only game mode in which ALL three factors of your car come
into play - your
aerodynamics, your power and your stability. Your aerodynamics affect your top
speed and acceleration.
Your stability affects how able you are to keep the car in control in excess of
200mph. And your power
affects how much power there is in the car, Einstein. 

To build the ideal Speed car, you must separate the categories and focus on them
one at a time. But
prioritisation is in need firstly. Your stability is first, power is second and
your aerodynamics is
basically just finessing and fine-tuning your speed, so that goes last.

STABILITY - this can be increased very easily, just in the car lot. That's right -
4-wheel-drive is 
            highly recommended. And not just any 4WD. The car MUST weigh in excess
of 1200KG (2600lbs),
            otherwise the potential is there for the car to simply destabilise and
completely fly 
            off the road at the slightest crest, hill or jump. 
            When it comes to tuning your car, obviously the suspension and tires
are your first 
            upgrades. Brakes are recommended - if you find yourself suddenly at an
awkward angle,      
            going into the next turn at over 180mph, you need to be able to slow
down. Quickly.
            otherwise you'll spin out and total yourself. 

            For in-depth tuning, I recommend turning your camber angle to the
positive section, and 
            your toe angle in to negative. Play around with it, because different
settings affect 
            different cars. And the optimum balance varies from car to car, so you
can never be too
            certain that there's one "master" setting, if you will, that works for
each car.

POWER - one of the mistakes that many people make is over-tuning. You don't need
the power of a 
        harnessed Supernova under your bonnet to win a speed challenge. It's the
driving of the driver
        that wins the race, not the car. Of course, that's not to say the car has
no part in it 
        whatsoever. If I said that, you might as well use a horse for all I care.
        For every car, regardless of drivetrain, Level 2 parts are a must. Engine,
Drivetrain, NOS
        and Turbo. Then, slowly upgrade the power upgrades to level 3. You must
see whether or not
        your car can take that sort of abuse from the engine. If it still feels
comfortable, then go
        ahead and do another upgrade. If you start to struggle with it, then
de-tune it immediately.
        The last thing you need is an uncontrollable car that is capable of over
200mph. Winning is
        instantly jeopardised should you do that. 

        Experiment with it, like stability each car has it's own optimal setting.
There's not much I
        can do for you in the in-depth tuning, except to recommend you to raise
the start boost and 
        end boost to maximum should you think your car can take some extra abuse.
By doing this, you
        can raise the maximum output of your car's engine by 5-10% extra.

AERODYNAMICS - body kits, spoilers, hoods. What may seem as an added visual
accessory in the other 
               game modes could very well be the definitive turning point in
fine-tuning your car's
               capability, and could very well win you the race.
               Body Kits are a BEEEG aero improvement, even if it's a mere stock
autosculpt body kit.
               The body kits improve your car's aero anywhere from 150-350 points,
and that's good 
               enough for a couple of levels up from your current aero status.
Editing the front bumper
               is what increases/decreases the top speed, because it's the front
of the car that faces
               the most air resistance, and not the side skirts or the rear
bumper. The better the 
               front bumper can counter this air resistance, the greater your
overall top speed. This
               includes making the air intake slots on the bumper bigger, and even
               a part of the bumper to direct the airflow around the bumper,
rather than straight
               into it. 

               Spoilers do influence your car's performance, albeit not as much as
the body kits.
               The only thing they do is create downforce, and this is affected by
the height of the
               spoiler. This downforce, mainly created by the weight of the
spoiler (which in turn
               is affected by its height), pushes the car's tyres into the road,
and helps the car
               stick to the road, thus helping stability. However, if the spoiler
becomes too bulky,
               the air resistance increases, thus capping the top speed. So be
careful as to finding
               the perfect compromise between speed and stability, as they vary
for car and spoiler.

4.8 - The Elite Kings --------------------------------(NFSPS022)

After reading and utilising the above advice, I take it now you have unlocked the
three Elite Kings
(yes, three) that dominate the particular race modes that I have thoroughly
described and advised
you on. And to be honest, they aren't that good, so you start dislodging your
heart in your throat
now. The title "King" is overrated when you see the reality of their caliber -
they are only slightly
better than the average joes you were racing with in your struggle to reach the
top. Some of those
joes in question are actually better than some of the Kings. So no sweat. These
guys are easy, if you've
made it this far using my advice.

4.8.1 - Ray Krieger, The Grip King                    (NFSPS023)

The list of races is as follows, in order:

- Time Attack
- Sector Shootout
- Grip

BMW M3 E92

- his car, the BMW M3 E92. It's light, superbly tuned and is very fast through the

- he can't drive. His braking points are off, his line through the corners is very
odd and he is
  over-zealous with the gas pedal, meaning he often spins out and/or doesn't go
through the turns
  as well as he could have.

- no knowledge of the track. Period. Coupled with his awful driving skill, that's
one hell of a 
  losing combo.

TIME ATACK - the track used combines a whole variety of sharp corners, so a little
car will come
             in handy. There's only one high speed corner, which is linked to the
main straight, and
             then a very sharp hairpin follows the high-speed corner. Speed
through turns is the key
             for success, although beating Krieger doesn't take much. His best
time is usually around
             1 minute 10 seconds, give or take a few seconds. A good car with a
good driver should
             get around 1 minute 3 seconds, again give or take a few secs. And
unlike most Time Attacks,
             you will be given 4 laps instead of 3.

SECTOR SHOOTOUT - this track is tight, with slopes. A car without good handling
will suffer here, as
                  this demands a LOT from the suspension. Similarly, the driver
must know how to tackle
                  a sloped course. Since I haven't given any tips, I recommend you
practice first 
                  before you take this on. 

                  Sector 1 is a high-speed sector. The sector checkpoint is
located right at the end
                  of the high speed straight, and ideally you should get very
high. Krieger usually 
                  hits the 390-400 mark, and despite Krieger's bad driving skill,
that's a bit of a
                  tall order here.

                  Sectors 2 and 3 are very tricky, with both uphill and downhill
slopes and a LOT of
                  hairpins that can be tackled. Krieger can manage 380 here, and
that IS a lot. 
                  However, it is possible, if you have a car able in the corners,
to hit up to 450 here,
                  as the exits of the sectors merge from an uphill slope to a
downhill slope very 
                  quickly, making for some shockingly quick exits.
                  Sector 4 is mainly downhill, but it is riddled with the two
sharpest hairpins on 
                  the entire track. You have to be very aware of the track if you
want to make it out 
                  in front, as you can very easily spin out and possibly
total/damage your car. Krieger
                  can obtain anywhere up to 350, but afterwards, he's beat.

GRIP - a nice, lovely high speed track awaits your final destruction of Ray
Krieger, the Grip King. 
       There are one or two tricky corners following the high speed straights, but
in general if you
       have a fast car, you have him licked. There's no pressure at all for this
race. You might even
       beat him blindfolded - he's that bad here.

And that's it! You are now the Grip King and you have a new BMW M3 E92 in your
garage, along with an
extra $50,000!

4.8.2 - Karol Monroe, The Drag King                   (NFSPS024)

The list of races is as follows:

- Wheelie Competition
- 1/4 mile drag
- 1/2 mile drag

Ford Mustang GT

- speed off the line. As soon as the light turns green, he's off. You can very
well be beaten by him
  just because of his instantaneous shifting.

- his shifting. As far as I'm concerned, he is a very good shifter. He can
continuously gain speed,
  and doesn't lag like many do when he shifts. So watch it.

- his car. He drives a 2006 Ford Mustang GT which, at level 3, can only do a
standing 1/4 mile in 
  around 10-11 seconds, and a standing 1/2 in around 19 seconds. Karol is a very
good drag driver, 
  but he is HORRIBLY let down by his own car.

WHEELIE COMPETITION - you need a car with torque for this, and a LOT of it. Karol
is dangerous in 
                      this area, capable of over 200m-long wheelies. Well, you've
read the section 
                      on wheelie tips, and you should be able to top him easily.
Dodge Charger, more
                      power than traction, nitrous in 4th gear, 300m+. Simple.

1/4 mile drag - you need a car that is capable of a sub-10 second time. And
provide these new cars
                with all the parts you can get, without any specific tuning, and
you'll get a car 
                that is capable of a sub-9 second time, easily. Maybe even sub-8
seconds. It's not
                that hard, just nail the shifts and you'll be fine. Hit the NOS in
3rd, and watch 
                Monroe just go backwards in your rearview mirror. Piece of cake.

1/2 mile drag - here's where Karol really breaks down. His Mustang does a standing
1/2 mile in anywhere
                between 17 and 19 seconds. No joke. You might as well just crawl
the race, on your
                bare knees. A good drag car can do a 1/2 mile in around 13
seconds, and a REALLY 
                good car can do around 11 seconds. You should ideally aim for the
13 second mark, and
                shifting here is not important. You can screw up your shifts and
you'll only lose 
                about 2 seconds off your time. Max. And still, a 15 second time is
still good enough
                to smoke Karol's brains out. 

And BAM! You are officially the Drag King! Please welcome (or rather, sell as you
get it) a not-so-new
Ford Mustang GT to your garage, and a generous sum of $50,000!

4.8.2. - Nate Denver, The Speed King                  (NFSPS025)

The list of races are as follows:

- Top Speed Run 
- Top Speed Run
- Speed Challenge

1965 Pontiac GTO

- his ability to maintain stability at the very highest of speeds. He can really
hold it together,
  until you bump him at 220mph. Then he flies.

- as with Monroe, Denver is let down by his own ride. I mean, come on. A
42-year-old muscle car?
  Sorry, but that thing runs on leafsprings which can barely contain the stock
engine, let alone a
  tuned aftermarket engine. Only one thing keeps it in check - Denver himself.
He's very good at 
  driving that monster. The old Goat barely manages 210mph, and its acceleration
is truly awful.

TOP SPEED RUN 1 - this takes place on the first half of the Nevada speedway. And
because this isn't
                  an A to B race, whereby whoever reaches first wins, I recommend
you take it slow,
                  and take your time. On the corners and turns that don't run-up
to the next checkpoint,
                  just cruise along at 150mph, or whatever speed you're
comfortable at, a speed that
                  you KNOW you can't lose control at. When it comes to the run-up
of a checkpoint, 
                  however, just give it the full monty and floor it. If you can,
use the NOS. It 
                  really helps when it comes to squeezing out a few extra mph just
before you pass
                  the checkpoint.

                  As far as the track is concerned, it's tricky. There are quite a
few crests and 
                  jumps throughout the turn, and there are various blind corners,
caused by slopes.
                  On these blind corners, just slow down. No point jeopardising
the whole race because
                  you think it's "uncool" or not right to slow down because you're
in a Speed race.
                  Just slow down. The slopes themselves can be tricky, because if
you adjust your line
                  accidentally at any point, it's hard to regain the line back. Be
confident, and be
                  smart. Underestimate the track, and your race is over. 

TOP SPEED RUN 2 - like top speed run 1, take your time. No point going fast,
increasing your chances
                  of Armageddon when you don't need to. However, unlike run 1,
this takes place on
                  the second half of the Nevada speed way. The first half of the
track is VERY hilly.
                  Be careful - take that first jump at NO FASTER THAN
270KPH/160MPH. You do, and you're
                  as good as dead. On the way out, there's the checkpoint, and
just NOS it, seeing as
                  you'll exit the jump at around 150mph/250kph. The rest of the
course easens up, and 
                  you should execute the next sections with ease. After the fourth
checkpoint, the road
                  suddenly becomes twisty and narrow. Just slow down, and cruise
through at an easy 
                  140mph/220kph. You don't need to take it fast, because there are
no more checkpoints
                  left, just the finishing line. And Denver would have probably
totaled on the first
                  jump anyways, so no need to worry about him crashing into you.

SPEED CHALLENGE - I can only assume that by now, you know the two sections of
Nevada Speedway well. 
                  Because the final leg in your domination of the Speed King is an
all-out race on
                  the FULL Nevada Speedway. This is an A to B sprint race, and
whoever reaches there
                  first, wins.

                  If you are not confident in the track, don't worry, there is a
solution. Just tail
                  Denver right to the very end, and at the last second slip into
his slipstream and
                  burst ahead. Or, you could bump him at high speed, and he'll
total himself. That
                  way, you can simply cruise to the finish line at a piffling
100mph/160kph, and take
                  his crown.

                  Similarly, if you just wanna go 200mph+ all the way, that's fine

And BAM! You are now the new Speed King! Your reward is a 42-year-old clunker and




Apologies earlier for the confusing statement. There are in fact FOUR Elite Kings,
one for each
respective race mode. I took you through Speed, Grip and Drag, now I will take you
through the Drift

But why, you say, have you created a separate section for drifting? Why not bunch
it up with the 
others? This is because of me and my view of drifting. It is not simply a form of
racing. It is an
art, and there are very few who know how to drift like a true king. Just as we
have Pablo Picasso
and Van Gogh in art, we have Keiichi Tuschiya and Rhys Millen in the drift world.
Drifting is one
of my passions, and I have an enormous respect and admiration for it. So much so,
that whether the
NFS game features drifting or not, I will honour the art by writing its own
separate Drift section.
NFS Carbon's D.K. section proved to be very successful, and hopefully I can
continue the success with
my knowledge accumulated from endless drift hours in NFS: ProStreet, as the Drift
King of the Need
For Speed franchise.

5.1 - The Art of Drifting ----------------------------(NFSPS027)

I'm sure there will be some of you out there who may think I've turned this very
informative guide
into a nonsensical blur of extreme opinions and references to Pablo Picasso. But
bear with me. There
is some method to my madness here.

The Art of Drifting is all about of taking the fastest line through a corner.
Indeed, it is widely
regarded as the fastest way of executing a corner, whereby you turn the wheel in
the opposite direction
of the actual corner. Drifting, simply put, is going through a corner at a
breakneck speed, sideways.
The reason why it is considered the fastest way through a corner is because a true
and proper drift
enables the driver and the car to exit the turn at a much faster speed than when
he/she entered it.
A reason why this form of racing is considered, to many, as an art is because of
the raw complexity
of it, and because the final product can truly be spectacular. A true drift king
is not a driver, but 
an artist.

Another reason why drifting is considered an art is because there are so many
variations of it, just
like art itself. What art delivers in terms of different sorts of styles, drifting
offers different
sorts of drifts. Drifting itself is very hard to do, but there are other ways that
can be passed off 
as drifting but in fact are not hard to do, nor are they true drifts.

POWERSLIDING - this is when the car's power overcomes the traction avaialble, and
then this state of 
               tractionary limbo is held in a slide for a short period of time.
This often slows the
               car down in the middle of a corner, but at the exit of the corner
it can prove to be
               very fast indeed. The reason why it kicks up in the first place is
because of your
               own doing - you mistimed the accelerator. 

               This is often used by experts to detect inexperienced drivers from
the experienced.
               Inexperienced drivers often mash the gas far too early, causing a
disruption of 
               balance, thus creating a powerslide. However, it is sometimes used
as a tactical method
               by experienced drivers as well, whether it be to decrease seconds
off a lap time, or
               block out the competition.

E-BRAKE DRIFT - this locks the main drivetrain wheels (where the power is
delivered to) and causes
                an upset in balance when the e-brake is pulled. When this upset is
caused, the e-brake
                is released, and then quickly the accelerator is floored. The
power is used to
                convert and maintain the upset into a slide, for a limited period
of time. This is
                by far the easiest of slides to initiate, and to maintain.

CLUTCH KICK DRIFT - this is where the clutch is kicked in the middle of a corner,
while turning. 
                    The clutch is basically used in cars to disrupt the flow of
power to the wheels
                    so that it is easier to shift up and down a gear in manual
transmissions. This
                    kick enables the disruption of the flow of power, but as soon
as the clutch is 
                    released, the power comes back, at very high revs, meaning
very high torque. Thus, 
                    at this stage it becomes similar to powersliding. This sudden
return of high torque 
                    upsets the whole balance of the car, and overcomes the car's
traction. The rear 
                    tires start to slip, and this is maintained by a constant flow
of torque to the 
                    rear, via pressing the accelerator methodically and precisely.
The front tires 
                    do the steering and keeps the drift in check, and pretty much
dictates the 
                    direction of the drift. This is the hardest sort of slide to
pull off, and,
                    incidentally, is the closest slide to pure drifting itself.

A proper drift itself does not need e-brakes, clutches, or even much torque to be
executed. This is
how to execute a proper drift:

A drift requires three things: inertia (momentum), relative speed, and a knowledge
of how to shift and  |
maneuver the car's body weight, a.k.a. load-shifting. The three aspects are the
three pillars of a true |
drift - if one does not exist, a drift cannot exist.                             
When a car is moving, it has a force called momentum. This is the force you feel
when you brake, when   |
you are thrown forward, but restrained by your seatbelt. Usually, the higher the
speed, the greater the |
momentum. A drifter must know how to utilise this momentum effectively through a
technique called       |
"load-shifting". This is when you shift the weight from the center of gravity on
the car to a certain   |
place on the car, i.e. the side of the car, or the front, near the engine. For
example, when you brake, |
all the weight is suddenly shifted towards the front. That's why you are thrown
forwards under braking. |
Similarly, when going round a sharp left bend, all the weight is thrown to the
right-hand-side of the   |
car, thus pulling you to the right. Drifting is all about using the weight of the
car to get you through|
the corner, using your steering only to direct the drift, and your accelerator
only to maintain the     |
momentum gathered. This is done by sharply turning the steering wheel into the
direction of the corner, |
so that the momentum is transferred to the side of the car, instead of the middle.
You maintain the     |
inertia by flooring it through the turn, and fine-tuning your drift angle using
the steering wheel, so  |
you line up parallel to the exit at the end of the drift. This allows you to gain
speed on the exit, as |
turning is minimal, thus leaving the corner effectively as fast, if not faster,
than you entered it.    |

And thus, this is the one of the most spectacular arts known today. This is, the
art, of drifting.

5.2 - Basic Tips -------------------------------------(NFSPS028)

Well, now you know the works of drifting. You know what it is, but you can't do it
yet. Here's a few
basic tips to get you started, and to get used to it.

- turn in before the corner. This transfers your momentum, and then mash the gas
to maintain it. 
  Don't forget to countersteer to keep the car in check, and to keep it on the
track. To straighten
  up, just let go of the accelerator and continue to countersteer.

- experiment with different views. You may find that you might find it easier with
the better sense 
  of control you can feel in the bumper and hood views, or you might like the
better sense of perspective
  that you get from the far away views, where you can see the entire car.

- explore different lines through corners. Try using some of the grip racing
advice I gave you earlier
  regarding approaching and executing corners and lines. They may work for
drifting, but they may not.
  It really comes down to your style of drifting - everyone is unique, and there
is no set, "orthodox"
  way about drifting. That's why there are so many variations and techniques out

Master these three, and you'll break the 3,000 point barrier each run very easily.

5.3 - How to Finesse it ------------------------------(NFSPS029)

There are two main factors in the drift which influence the entire outcome of it.
That's the throttle
and the steering wheel. The steering wheel dictates the direction of the drift,
while the throttle
dictates and controls the momentum of the drift. Experienced drifters have learned
how prolong the
overall momentum, and seemingly keep up the momentum gathered in the first corner
for the entire track.
They have learned to master and finesse the drift, because of their very clever
use of the throttle
and steering.

To prolong a drift, and to maintain the inertia through a long period of time, you
need to fully 
master the accelerator. It doesn't sound like an impressive skill to have, but
trust me, it shows.
All slides are controlled by the accelerator. Drifting even. So if you find
yourself spinning out
in a grip race, for example, you can easily correct it after the skills you
learned with the accelerator
in drifing.

At the end of a drift, to mainatin it further:

- repeatedly let go of the accelerator, then accelerate again. This on/off motion
continues to disrupt
  the balance of the car, and maintain the inertia.

- line up your car using the steering wheel to the optimum entrance line of the
next corner. Then,
  when you get there, do your thing and drift through it.

- repeat the above as many times as you can until the end of the course.

Now this is easier said than done. An average drifter may be able to keep this up
for two corners,
before the inevitable slip-up that will force himself to end the drift. You must
be fully aware, and
dedicate all your concentration to this if you want to pull off the whole track in
one drift. Remember,
you can't master this overnight. Continual practice and dedication is what's
needed to FULLY finesse 
it. If executed correctly, a score as high as 6,000 is possible.

5.4 - Recommended Cars + Tuning Sets -----------------(NFSPS030)

For this, I will state the car(s) appropriate, explain why, and then give you some
tuning setups
that will prove useful out there (just skim-the-surface tuning. Not necessarily


If the Drift King himself, Aki Kimura, has one, then you can be sure he's selected
it for a reason.
This car's balance is absolutely flawless, and on the stat bars it shows - this
car has double the
handling than power when stock. And as we know, the balance through a car is shown
through the 
handling bar, and if you want to control and manipulate the car's balance well, it
calls for a very
good handling car. If you upset a car with bad balance/handling, for example,
you'd spin out. But
a car with good balance/handling can be controlled should things become very
hairy, very fast. Which
they will.

Tuning Setup:

Engine - Level 2
Drivetrain - Level 3
Forced Induction -  Level 2
Suspension - Level 3
Brakes - Level 3
Tires - Level 3
NOS - Level 1 or 2 (for the nitrous drift. NOS isn't really needed in drifting)

This setup will further enhance the car's superb balance, matched with just enough
power to access
the world of momentum-manipulation. It can't happen without at least 400BHP.
However, if you feel
you can do better with the level 3 engine/forced induction upgrade, then go ahead.
Even fully maxxed
out, it still feels that it has a lot to give, and that it can take a lot more
punishment. If that's
the case for you, then some in-depth horsepower manipulation is required.

In-depth tuning:

[Under Engine section]

CRM Timing - set it two notches to the right
Start Boost Pressure - set it completely to the right
End Boost Pressure - set it completely to the right

There are other things you can play around with in the engine section, but that's
mainly related to


Like the RX-7, this car has a brilliant balance set up from stock, but unlike the
Mazda, this has
the grunt to match the balance. It has a BMW E46 M3 engine under the bonnet to be
exact, and God,
does it sound spectacular! However, when it comes to purchasing upgrades, handling
takes a priority
over power - the Z4 has 343BHP at stock!

Tuning  Setup:

Engine - Level 1 or 2 (depending on your preferance)
Drivetrain - Level 3
Forced Induction - Level 2
Suspension - Level 3
Brakes - Level 3
Tires - Level 3
NOS - Level 1

By deliberately capping the expense on power upgrades, and redirecting that to
handling upgrades,
this should restore some dominance of handling over power. And since the BMW
already has an amazing
engine, power upgrades really aren't necessary for it, except for maybe NOS. I've
recommended Engine
Level 1, but if you feel you can still control it at Level 2, then go ahead and
upgrade. DO NOT PUT
A LEVEL 3 ENGINE UPGRADE IN THE Z4 M! This really pushes it to extremes, and it
delivers the torque
to the wheels much too sharply, and much too quickly. And therefore it increase
the chances of you
spinning out. And also, at the end of the day, the power would be dominant over
handling, and that's
a major no-no in the drift world.

CAR 3 - SHELBY GT500 ('07)

This car's dominance in drag came down to one thing - it's traction. As a general
rule, the more
traction you have, the better your car handles. This car has a level 4 in traction
in drag racing,
and I reckon that will be useful here, in drifting. With 444BHP on tap, stock,
this car has more 
than enough power to start its momentum-manipulation. So, like the Z4, power takes
a back seat, and
handling goes straight into the driver's seat.

Tuning Setup:

Engine - Level 1
Drivetrain - Level 3
Forced Induction - Level 1
Suspension - Level 3
Brakes - Level 3
Tires - Level 3
NOS - Level 1

This should enable to you to get a VERY high traction level on the stat bars, so
you can fully utilise
the 500BHP or so that you have on tap with the Shelby. The GT500 is capable of
achieving power of over
750BHP, and if you ask me that is almost certainly ridiculous. You'd have to be
either a) a superhuman
or b) a madman, to consider putting that kind of power in your Shelby. However,
because of the handling
upgrades, it now feels very useable, and feels like it can take much, MUCH more.
Don't let that lull
you into a false sense of security, however, because if you install the full
monty, the overload of
torque will be too much for any drifter to take. Uograde it if you want to, but do
it slowly and 
gently. Just be warned - this car bites.

5.5 - Aki Kimura, The Drift King ---------------------(NFSPS031)

You've got the skinny on drifting, you've got a very good idea on how to drift
well, and while you've
not exactly finessed it, you're pretty damn good now. I think you're eligible for
the fourth, and
final, Elite King. Introducing Aki Kimura, the master of the drift world. The one
and only, Drift

The list of races are as follows:

- Drift
- Drift
- Drift


- 1994 Mazda RX-7

- I've recommended it, and he's got it. The Mazda RX-7. Capable of an average of
5,000 points PER RUN,
  there aren't many cars out there that are capable of this sort of standard, and
as far as that's 
  concerned, Aki's got everyone creamed with his car.

- like Ray Krieger, he's got a good car, but he sucks. Badly. He is not worthy to
drive that RX-7,
  and he doesn't deserve his title. His car does most of the work for him, now
imagine if he could
  actually drift. His average is around 2700-3000 for each run. You should be
miles better than him.
  Hell, some of the competition you faced leading up to this race, in Noise Bomb,
could've smoked 

DRIFT 1 - This is very complex drift track, full of high speed corners, low speed
corners, and slopes.
          You need to be absolutely confident in yourself and you car in order to
rack up the points 
          here. The good news is that Aki cannot break the 3,000 point barrier
here, but the bad
          news is that this track is definitely no cake-walk. The corners in here
can test the very
          best drifters, and if you're not aware and fully alert, you can easily
total yourself. Yes,
          not merely damage, but totaling is possible here. However, if you follow
all my advice that
          I've given, I see why you can't make a score in excess of 3500 points.

DRIFT 2 - Not an unduly difficult track this time, but it still is quite a test.
The last two corners
          in particular scream for some serious skill needed to execute them
properly. The second
          last corner is a wide-to-narrow high speed corner, which then transcends
into a almost 
          completely straight road, with a slight angle to it. Maintaining a drift
with a near 0
          degree angle is almost impossible, and for it I would recommend lining
up to the outside
          of the turn and then drifting into the finish line. On top of this, Aki
has become slightly
          more dangerous now, as he can now get scores as high as 3500 on this
track. So be careful.
          Most of the point lie within the first half of the track, right until
the penultimate
          corner. Then it's tricky. But despite all this, you can achieve a score
in excess of 3500 

DRIFT 3 - This is the reverse of drift 1. It's much more trickier this time. As
soon as you start,
          it's a downhill corner, only to transcend into a wide-to-narrow
high-speed corner. This in
          turn links with an S-curve, with the entrance slow and the exit much
faster. And then, a
          blind(-ish) uphill S-curve into two very high-speed corners. And to top
it all off, there 
          is a corkscrew at the end, and it's VERY tight. However, this is the
same track that caught
          Aki out in the beginning, and again, like the beginning, he can't manage
to break the 3,000
          point barrier. However, a score of 4,000 is very easily possible on this
track, if you are
          at critical alert. So, this turns out to be a fun, challenging way to
become a D.K. And 
          it's a good thing the tracks are tricky, otherwise it would have become
simply boring drifting
          against Aki.

And so, you are now the Drift King! Boo-yah! You've got a sick RX-7 in your
garage, both visually
and physically, and an extra $50,000!

But... you'll never beat me. Long will be the time before someone tops my all-time
high of 15,722.
Unlucky. =P


6.---------RYO WATANABE, THE SHOWDOWN KING (NFSPS032)-----------


After all the trash-talk, the threats, the wins and the cash, you are ready to
take on the bad-boy
of the legal street racing world. You are ready to take on Ryo Watanabe, the
Showdown King. You are
going to fight for his crown on all four race modes, and there's no points for
second place. Failure
is not an option. Domination is the key.

List of races is as follows:

- Speed Challenge (Full Nevada Speedway)
- Wheelie Competition
- Top Speed Run (Nevada 2)
- 1/2 mile drag
- Speed Challenge (Nevada 1)
- Time Attack
- Drift
- Sector Shootout
- Drift
- Grip

2008 Mitsubishi Evo X

- everything. His car, his skills, his knowledge of the track, everything. There
is no flaw with
  Ryo, in terms of technical skill.

- he can lose control very easily if you shunt him hard enough. Then he either
gets confused, and
  starts ramming the wall (glitch?) or he totals himself.

Before you start on Ryo, it is worth noting at this point that all the training,
all the practice
that you have done will be fully utilised here. This is the culminating test of
all your knowledge
and skill. You must be a master in each category before taking Ryo on. Refer back
to some of my
tips if you still have trouble beating him. Ryo is not just good, he is bloody

SPEED CHALLENGE - you have to take your time. He will rocket off the line, but
just tail him until
(full Nevada)     the right time to blow past him. The odd thing is, once you stay
in front of him
                  for a period of time, he totals. If you tail him, he makes it
fine to the end. So
                  jump him as soon as you can, then he'll eventually total
himself. It only works if
                  there's at least a 2 second gap between you and him. If he's
playing fender tag 
                  with you, then he won't total. Jump him, leave him, watch him
burn, then cruise
                  to the finish.

WHEELIE COMPETITION - Ryo's pretty good at this, better than Monroe at any rate.
He consistently 
                      lands his wheelies in the 200m area, sometimes 250m. He is
dangerous. But
                      if you have that Charger or any other car that can do 300m+
consistently, then
                      your worries are over.

TOP SPEED RUN - remember, you don't need to cross the line in front to win. Take
your time. That said,
(Nevada 2)      don't take TOO much time. He can achieve a total top speed of
around 1,200kph (around
                750mph), which is damned impressive on a track with only 4
checkpoints. So be careful
                and time your acceleration and lay-offs well. Don't forget to use
NOS if necessary.

1/2 MILE DRAG - again, better than Monroe, but not really concerning. He
consistently hits the sub-15
                second barrier, and is very good with his shifts. However, he does
hit the occasional
                missed shift, and his time suffers because of it. His car is fully
capable of getting
                13 second time, but it is let down by Ryo. That's not to say he
isn't good - you slip
                up and he'll jump you. Just make sure have a car that can do a
sub-13 second time and
                you'll be fine.

SPEED CHALLENGE - again, just take your time and tail him. Jump him around the
first big jump, and
(Nevada 1)        then extend your lead. When you reach the first low speed
complex, with two mountainous
                  walls on either side of you, usually Ryo totals there. If not,
he often loses control
                  on the main high speed straight that follows the complex. Either
way, you pull 
                  out a lead and he totals himself soon after.

TIME ATTACK - welcome to Tokyo. Ryo's car plays a significant advantage here,
because it has 4WD, and
              a very close gearing ratio, judging by the way he rockets through
the corners. His
              time varies, but he always consistently gets under 50 seconds.
Sometimes he can be 
              quite the daredevil, with an unrelentless attitude in taking the
corners. He'll willingly
              trade paint, and when he does, that's the sign that he'll pull off a
dangerously fast
              time. So be careful. Through the first complex, he is of a medium
pace, but through
              the second half of the course is where he excels. So observe him,
watch his line, then
              mimic him and use NOS at the end to cut down the time.

DRIFT 1 - possibly the most frustrating and hardest drift track in the entire
game. When I beat Ryo
          here, it was mainly due to luck. The maximum I've ever got in the Tokyo
Dockyard drift is
          is around 3200, and yet Ryo is capable of consistently getting over the
3,000 point barrier.
          You need to practice before this one. Period. You need to find a way to
get over 3,000 
          consistently, and then pray that he gets under 3,000. He often does, but
not as often as 
          he surpasses 3,000. You need skill for this, and threefold the amount of
luck. So good luck.

SECTOR SHOOTOUT - in general, this a medium-paced track. While there are several
fast straights, each
                  one is ended with a sharp hairpin or corner. And because of
this, it's essential
                  that your car is fast through the corners. However, if you
followed the criteria  
                  for a successful SS car, you should be fine. Each sector can be
completed with over
                  400 points, and the reason why Ryo gets any points at all is
because he jumps you
                  at the start, and takes the points for being the first thru a
sector. Then you 
                  smash his record. Ryo is weak here, and you shouldn't really be
concerned here.

DRIFT 2 - this is one of the slightly faster drift tracks in Tokyo, and it makes
for some serious
          points. Ryo himself excels here, as he can consistently hit the 3,000
point barrier. 
          Again. However there's no reason why you can't take him down, as I
reckon a score of almost
          4,000 points can be achieved. The bulk of the points lies in the first
half of the track,
          so don't be afraid to attempt to execute drifts with angles in excess of
45 degrees, at 
          over 70mph/120kph. That's how you get the points. And that's how you own

GRIP - this is it. The race you have been striving for since you started the game.
This is the         ||
       culmination of all your training, and all that you have learned. All your
knowledge about       ||
       how to dominate in a race will be put to the test by Ryo, and this time
there's no second       ||
       chances.                   								       ||
       Ryo's pulling out all the stops on this one, and you can count that he will
be firing on all    ||
       cylinders. In general, the track is very high speed, with the occasional
tight bend or two.     ||
       During the 4-lap race, Ryo will be putting immense pressure on you the
entire time, trying to   ||
       get past you or extending his lead. IT IS YOUR DUTY NOT TO LET THAT HAPPEN.
If you slip up, just||
       once, you can count yourself out of the race - you're as good as gone.
You'll be hard pressed to||
       step back up to the plate, and finish him off. Off course, you could always
play dirty and try  ||
       to shove him in the wall, but that's not exactly beneficial to either of
you. You need to keep  || 
       your game face on, keep focused, and only focus on the track, and not Ryo.
You do that, and     ||
       you've hit the nail on the head. You'll as good as smoke his ass.         

And that's it! You are now officially the Showdown King, the Street King and you
have now completed 
Need For Speed: ProStreet! In your garage now is Ryo's own Evo X, and a large sum
of $300,000! W00T!!!

*        *         *         *         *         *         *         *         * 
       *         *


7.-------------------WHAT NEXT? (NFSPS033)----------------------


Well done, you've completed the game! But there is still some stuff to do, you
know, such as dominating
all the races and Race Days, flushing out the competition online, and breaking all
10 of Ryo's records.
You can work on finessing all the race modes, fiddle around with some in-depth
tuning on each car, 
find the optimum settings and all, you know. Blah blah blah. I'll help you with
Ryo's records, but 
you gotta find your own way to stay content after that.

7.1 - Ryo's Records ----------------------------------(NFSPS034)

I don't know the actual records themselves, but I do know where you can find them
and break them.
Here's the full list:

RYO'S RECORD 1 - Located within Battle Machine at Grip at Chicago Airfield
RYO'S RECORD 2 - Located within Battle Machine at Drift in Nevada II
RYO'S RECORD 3 - Located within Battle Machine at 1/2 mile drag at Portland
International Raceway II
RYO'S RECORD 4 - Located within React Team Sessions at Sector Shootout at Autopolis
RYO'S RECORD 5 - Located within React Team Sessions at Drift at Tokyo Dockyard II
RYO'S RECORD 6 - Located within React Team Sessions at Top Speed Run at
Autobahnring II
RYO'S RECORD 7 - Located within Super Promotion at Time Attack at Infineon II
RYO'S RECORD 8 - Located within Super Promotion at 1/4 mile drag at Texas World
RYO'S RECORD 9 - Located within Super Promotion at Wheelie Competition at
Autobahnring II
RYO'S RECORD 10 - Located within Super Promotion at Speed Challenge at Nevada Highway

7.2 - ProStreet 2? -----------------------------------(NFSPS035)

Likely, but then again there'd have to be a killer storyline for it to work.
There's no real room
for extension on the current storyline - it's got no real strings attatched to the
previous games, 
nor does it look likely that it will develop into a new storyline altogether.

What I do know is that EA will probably keep to the legal street racing theme.
Although there has been
pressure and criticisms by many because of the removal of the cops and free roam,
it is highly unlikely
that EA will bow to this pressure and return to illegal street racing. EA has
revolutionised the NFS
franchise by taking a bold step forward, and it's unlikely that they will view
this game as putting
the wrong foot forward in the wrong direction.


8.------------FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (NFPS036)--------------


Q: Why are there no cops in the game?

A: Because EA have turned the NFS franchise into a legal street
   racing theme. In legal street racing, there's no cops, and no
   chases. It all takes place on closed circuit tracks.
Q: So does that mean there's no free roam?

A: Sadly, yes. Since it's all track-based, EA have ridden off 
   with free roam altogether. There's no need for it anymore,
   because the races don't take place on the open, commuting
Q: Which is the best drift/drag/grip/speed car?

A: There are many, but it comes down to personal choice, and the 
   right tuning setup. Any car can potentially be the best car
   in its class. But for specifics, see the above sections 
   dedicated to each race mode.
Q: Why is there a windtunnel? What does it do?

A: The windtunnel is there to fine tune your car's physical and
   visual performance. Certain extrusions on the car's bumpers
   and spoilers affects the car's overall performance, and the
   windtunnel allows you to see them and manipulate/fix them
   to your liking.
Q: How do you enter cheats?

A: On the main career menu, look down and it says "code entry".
   That's where you enter your cheat code. Enter the code in
   the "enter secret code" section.
Q: How do I unlock level 4 parts?

A: You win markers for them in race days. They are rare, but 
   you have a chance to get one after you win/dominate a race 
Q: How do I get a free car marker?

A: Again, from race days and Showdowns. They are rare, but they
   ARE there. It's all a matter of luck.
Q: How do I unlock the Collector's Edition cars?

A: Use the appropriate cheat in the "code entry" section. Type
   in either "unlockallthings" or "reggame". You should get them.


9.---------------RACING GLOSSARY (NFSPS037)---------------------


In alphabetical order, here is all the terms mentioned in the guide worth learning.

4WD - 4 wheel drive. This is when the car had 4 wheels to transmit the power to
the road, instead 
      of the conventional 2.

Aerodynamics - just how streamlined the car is. It can be adjusted through various
aftermarket visual parts.

Apex - the utmost inside of a corner. Also known as the kerb.

Braking - when the car is slowing down via pushing the brake pedal.

Cornering - going through a turn.

Clutch - the pedal used to disrupt the flow of power to the wheels, in order to
shift up/down a gear.

Downforce - the amount of weight on the car's wheels and tyres. As a general rule,
the more the downforce,
            the greater the amount of grip.

Drag - the amount of air resistance on your car. The more the drag, the more your
acceleration is
       capped. Influenced by bulky body parts and unnecessary exterior add-ons.

Drift - the fastest way of exectuting a corner. A variation of sliding.

Drivetrain - the class of car your car is. Defined by how your car gets the power
to the road, i.e.
             front-wheel-drive, 4WD, etc.

E-Brake - the emergency brake. Also known as the handbrake.

FWD - front-wheel-drive. The power goes to the frontal wheels to power the car.

Lateral Grip - the amount of grip you have at any point when cornering. Usually,
the more you have, 
               the sharper and better you can corner.

Oversteer - when the rear of the car kicks out and starts to force the car to
slide through the turn.
            Used in drifting.

RWD - rear-wheel-drive. The power is sent to the rear wheels to power the car.

Transmission - how you shift from gear to gear in a car. i.e. Automatic or Manual.

Understeer - when the front tires slip and the car breaks wide from the apex of
the corner.


10.---------------VERSION HISTORY (NFSPS038)--------------------


v1.0 - release version. Includes basic background info on game,
       guide for game, racing glossary, and contact info. Very 
       base version of FAQ.
       Started: 20/12/2007.
       Finished: 25/01/2008.


11.----------ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS/CREDITS (NFSPS039)----------------


Firstly I would like to thank the Almighty Allah, for creating me.

I would like to thank my family, who bought my X-Box 360 Elite, my copy of NFS
ProStreet and this 
HP laptop from which I composed this FAQ from.

I would like to thank the members of CheatHappens and its community, for
supporting me throughout
the creation of this FAQ/Walkthrough.

Special mentions go to The_Cheatmaster and 2hot4u, my inspirational motivators and
aides who helped
me create and finish this FAQ/Walkthrough.

Finally, I would like to thank the founders of CheatHappens, Nevermore and
PWizard, for allowing this
FAQ/Walkthrough onto their site.

Thank you all, and expect yet another kickass guide on the next NFS game by yours
truly next year!

~~ Chingy42007, a.ka. The REAL Drift King of the NFS franchise.

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