Wii Sports Guide - Guide for Wii Sports
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.-. .-. ______ _ .-. .-. |_| |_| .' ____/ ____ __ _ __ | |__ ____ \ \ /\ / / .-. .-. | (_ | __ '. .'__'. | ' _|| __| .' __/ \ \/ \/ / | | | | '._ '. ||__| || | | || .' | | '_ '. \ /\ / | | | | ___) | | __.'| |__| || | | '._ __) | '-' '-' '-' '-' /____.' | | '.__.' |_| '.___| /___.' |_| .------. .------. .------. .------. .------. | / / | | .-| || |_/¯¯¯\| | _ /| |.'¯¯',| |/ /¯\| || | || |\ x /| |=(_)= | || _|| | /\_/| |'._'-'| | |x | | | =|== | ||._(_)| '------' '------' '------' '------' '------' T A B L E O F C O N T E N T S |----|----|----|----|----|----|----|----|----|----| | | | | 01. Legal Disclaimer | (LEGL) | |----------------------------------|--------------| | 02. Main Games | (MAIN) | | o Tennis | [TENN] | | o Baseball | [BASE] | | o Bowling | [BOWL] | | o Golf | [GOLF] | | o Boxing | [BOXG] | |----------------------------------|--------------| | 03. Training Modes | (TRAN) | | o Returning Balls | | | o Timing Your Swing | | | o Target Practice | | | ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ | | | o Hitting Home Runs | | | o Swing Control | | | o Batting Practice | | | ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ | | | o Picking Up Spares | | | o Power Throws | | | o Spin Control | | | ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ | | | o Putting | | | o Hitting The Green | | | o Target Practice | | | ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ | | | o Working the Bag | | | o Dodging | | | o Throwing Punches | | |----------------------------------|--------------| | 04. Fitness Test | (TEST) | | 05. Credits | (CRED) | | | | |----|----|----|----|----|----|----|----|----|----| _ _ | |-----|====================================================|-----| | ___| |___ | | ___| |___ |___ ___| | 1. Legal Disclaimer (LEGL) | |___ ___| | | | | | | |_|-----|====================================================|-----|_| This file may not be reproduced except for personal or private use. It may not be placed on any website, without conesnt from both of the authors of this document. Currently the only sites with permission to use this file are: [ ] www.GameFAQs.com [ ] www.IGN.com [ ] www.Neoseeker.com [ ] www.honestgamers.com Copyright (c)2006 Chris Quigley and Brian Sulpher. _ _ | |-----|====================================================|-----| | ___| |___ | | ___| |___ |___ ___| | 2. Main Games (MAIN) | |___ ___| | | | | | | |_|-----|====================================================|-----|_| +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Tennis [TENN] +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Controls: =========------------------------ When serving, press the A Button to send the ball high into the air, followed by swinging the Remote to make your Mii swing at the ball. If the ball is hit at the very top of the lob upwards, the serve will be super powered. Any other swinging motion is made by flicking your wrist on whichever side of the body the ball is coming from, flicking with the front of the hand facing the sensor on your strong side (ie right side of fright-handers) and the back of the hand facing the sensor on your weak side (ie left side for right-handers). There are specific shots that can be applied to the ball by performing the following actions during the swing at the ball (thanks to GameFAQs user SuperSaiyanSonic for clarification on a couple of these from his posts on the board): Forehand Topsin: Twist the Remote from the buttons facing up to the buttons facing down. Forehand Slice: Hold Remote with the face of it towards the sensor, followed by swinging upwards and twist the remote away from the sensor. Lob: Swing from a lower area to a higher area. Backhand Topsin: Twist the Remote from the buttons facing down to the buttons facing up. Backhand Slice: Hold Remote with the face of it away the sensor, followed by swinging upwards and twist the Remote towards the sensor. Terminology: =========---------------------- Ace: A serve which gets by the opposition without them getting a racket on the ball. Advantage: When the match is a deuce, the next team to take a point can win on this setting with a second straight point. Break: To take a game when the opposition is serving. Deuce: When a game is tied at 40-40, it is called Deuce. At this point to win a team/player must score two straight points from this tie to get the victory. Drop Shot: Hitting the ball so it passes over th enext and hits the court close to the net. Lob: Hit a high ball back to the deep portion of the court to push the opposition off of the net. Racket: The implement used to hit the ball. Tennis Ball: The object hit back and forth between the two teams/players. Strategies: =========---------------------- - Try to mix up the shot usage, as this can throw an opponent off. This holds particularly true for human opponents, by mixing up the strokes used the opponent might be shocked by a move, causing them to mess up the return. - Learn how to use each type of stroke. Once they are mastered, it is time to master reading th eplay and deciding when to use each shot in specific situations that present themselves, as effective stroke selection can be the difference between a win and a loss. - Use the Training Modes for this game to truly master how the timing and angle "of the swings of the racket will effect the trajectory of the ball. By learning this it becomes even easier to make opponent's do what you want on the tennis court. - To get an easy power serve a lot of the time, simply tap the A Button to lob the ball into the air and within a half second start the swing to hit the ball. Although the timing will differ from player ot player slightly, use this basis to get the hardest and nastiest serve possible in play. - As a ball returns over the net, decide if it is best to swing at the net or to let the ball past to allow the back player to get it. Although it is tempting to always try with the front player, this can sometimes slow the back player down on a run enough to make him miss the ball if the front player was not close enough to play the ball on their attempted stroke. +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Baseball [BASE] +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Controls: =========------------------------ While at bat, you must swing the Wii Remote to hit the ball. It works best if you stand to the side, away from your TV, so that you swing the remote in front of it, as if you would actually do if a ball was thrown at you. The dynamics of this work as you'd expect them too: Hit the ball with the center of the bat to send it straight out. Hit it with top to send it to the left, and hit it with the bottom to send it to the right (these being the directions for right handers, reverse them if you're batting lefty.) The harder you swing, the harder you'll hit the ball, and the farther it will go. While at the pitching mound, you have a variety of pitches to choose from. Use the Wii remote as if you were holding a ball, and move it quickly forward to throw it. This works best while standing, facing your TV head- on. Don't hold any buttons, and you'll throw a fastball. Hold A while pitching to release a screwball. Hold B for a curveball. Hold both for a Splitter. You can switch between throwing overhand and underhand with the 1 and 2 buttons. Terminology: =========---------------------- Ball: A pitch thrown off of the plate's center, that the batter does not swing at. If he gets four, he'll automatically go to first base. Batter: The player swinging at the ball. Curveball: A pitch that curves to the side. Double: This is hitting the ball, and then moving to second base, while all of your players on base move forward two bases. Fastball: A fast ball that moves straight ahead. Foul: This is hitting the ball so that it goes to the right of second base or to the left of third base before actually passing the base. It counts as a strike if you have less than two strikes. Home Run: This is hitting a ball over the wall of the field between first and third base. You'll get one run, plus one for every player you have on base. All players will then cease being on bases. Infield: The grass area between the bases, Inning: Consists of a team batting, and pitching. There are three, and when the third one is over, the team with more points wins. Mercy Rule: This rule states that if you are leading by five or more at the bottom of an inning, the game will end and you will automatically win. Out: When a player catches the ball, or picks it up without dropping it from the infield. When a team gets three, the positions switch. Outfield: The grass area beyond the bases. Out of the Park: A homerun that completely leaves the stadium. It's not worth anything special. Pitcher: The player throwing the ball. Run: Baseball's term for a point. Screwball: A pitch that spins to the side. Single: This is hitting the ball, and then moving to first base, while all of your players on base move forward one base. Splitter: A pitch that seems to drop while in the air. Strike: A ball thrown over the plate that a player does not swing at, or any pitch thrown that the player swings at and misses. Triple: This is hitting the ball, and then moving to third base, while all of your players on base move forward three bases. Walk: If you get four balls, this occurs. You automatically go to first base. Strategies: =========---------------------- - While at bat, much unlike in real baseball, almost every pitch is fair game. Ocassionally you will be given a ball -- you can tell, because it will go almost directly into your player. However if a pitch has just a slight curve to it, swing anyway; they'll almost always just go down as strikes if you don't. - Aim to hit the ball as hard as you can, and with the center of the bat. Again, unlike in baseball, the players on the field don't have to catch it to get you an automatic out. If it lands in the infield, and they pick it up quickly, you'll be out (unless they drop it which is random.) Swing hard to prevent this. - While pitching, try and use a different variety of pitches, and try to put some strength into it so it goes fast. If the computer hits it, you can't do anything besides hope your fielders get to it fast. If you're playing a human, this is especially important though. And don't let them see what buttons you press, because it will allow them to know what pitch you are throwing before you actually throw it. - This is not really a strategy, but it's a useful piece of information none the less. A single in this game occurs if the ball lands in or close to the infield. A double occurs if it lands outfield, most of the time. The only way to get a triple is to have it land just shy of the home run wall, so that the outfielders actually spend some time chasing to get it. Needless to say, they aren't too common. - If you can score alot of points quickly, you may be able to pick up a quick win via the Mercy Rule. That states that at the end of an inning, if you are leading by five or more points, you'll automatically be given the win. +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Bowling [BOWL] +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Terminology: =========---------------------- Arrows: Placed in the lane to help line up shots. Using these effectively will allow a bowler to score well consistently. Double: When a bowler scores two consecutive strikes. Foul Line: If the bowler crosses the line, there throw is considered null. Frame: Each frame consists of two attempts to get all the pins down, though getting them all down in one ends the frame, or the 10th frame can consist of three throws if the pins are all knocked down within the first two throws. Gutters: The two large troughs that border the lanes. These are large enough to snag a ball that has gone off to one side, moving the ball past the pins without the opportunity of a score. Head Pin: The front most pin on the lane. Hook: When spin is applied to the ball to make it curve from the outer area of the lane to smash into the head pin and the entire set with great force. Open Frame: When two throws of the ball in a frame fail to knock down all 10 pins. This is disastrous for scoring well in bowling. Pin: 10 of these start out standing on each frame, with the goal being to knock as many down as possible. Spare: When a bowler picks up the remaining pins after the first throw in a frame. Split: When at least two pins are left standing and a gap exists between them. Strike: When a bowler knocks down all the pins on the first throw of a frame. Turkey: When a bowler scores three consecutive strikes. Bowling Scoring: =========---------------------- In bowling each pin is worth 1 point. If all 10 pins are knocked down in a frame, the score that frame is 10 PLUS the next thrown ball or balls (depending on the amount of balls used in that frame). For a Spare the frame will be worth 10 points + the next ball thrown (i.e. 10 + 9 = 19 for that frame). For a Strike the frame will be worth 10 points + the next two balls thrown (i.e. 10 + 7 + 3 =20 OR 10 + 10 + 7 = 27). This means that Strikes and Spares are very important for scoring well in bowling, as leaving an open frame (i.e. leaving pins standing after two balls in a frame) is usually a devastating blow to any score. This makes it nearly impossible to break 200 (any game over this amount is a good game). Controls: =========---------------------- Use the D-Pad to move left and right to line up the starting position of the bowler, and by pressing the A Button the angle of the aim can be adjusted by using the same left and right D-pad movements. To begin the throw, hold the Remote in the air by the shoulder, followed by holding down the B Button. Move the throwing arm backwards to begin the wind-up, followed by following through to the front, releasing the B Button as the arm begins to go up in the air. To add spin on a throw, tilt the remote to the side desired to add spin to while in the throwing motion, releasing the B Button to get the ball rolling. Strategies: =========---------------------- - Spend the first few games trying out the spins and positions from which to throw, figuring out what works best for you. Each person has different power, spin, and line up positions, so find one that works best for you. - Try to develop a routine for movements when throwing. This sounds odd but it will make it easier to repeat the good motions that work more frequently, meaning scores will rise overall. - Get used to bowling with one hand before switching around to the other side. It is a different game when throwing from the opposite side, so get used to one before hopping around. - Leaving open frames is a death knell to a good score thanks to the combo scoring found in bowling, so if going for a serious score just start over after a bad frame. -If you are able to throw a straight ball with a bit of speed, then it is very easy to pick up a score fo 300. Move all the way to the side of the lane that is the same as your throwing hand (ie left side for lefties, right for righties), and line up the dashes so they are right beside the gutter. Now press the A Button and move the dotted line so it is half on the headpin, half on the second pin, followed by throwing a straight ball. If done correctly, it is a striek every time, and with a bit of work you will be racking up 300 games at a very fast pace! +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Golf [GOLF] +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Terminology: =========---------------------- Albatross: This is what a -3 on a hole is called. This means that you shot three under par for the hole (ie par 5 hole means you shot 2). Birdie: This is what a -1 on a hole is called. This means that you shot one under par for the hole (ie par 5 hole means you shot 4). Bogey: This is what a +1 on a hole is called. This means that you shot one over par for the hole (ie par 5 hole means you shot 6). Bunker: These collection of sand traps are strewn about the course, usually concentrated around the greens to try and stop your ball from reaching the green. Double Bogey: This is what a +2 on a hole is called. This means that you shot two over par for the hole (ie par 5 hole means you shot 7). Duffed Shot: This is when a golfer hits a ball that travels a minimal distance on a badly screwed up swing. Eagle: This is what a -2 on a hole is called. This means that you shot two under par for the hole (ie par 5 hole means you shot 3). Fairway: This is the short grass between the tee and the green. This is a friendly surface to hit your ball off of, and it allows for maximum control on the ball when hit. Green: This is where every golfer is trying to get to on every hole as this is where the hole resides. Only a putter may be used on this surface. Green Edge: The cut of grass between the Green and the surrounding grass, it is almost as low cut as the green itself. It is suggested to use the putter from this surface, though any other club can be used as well. Hole In One.: This is what a -2 score on a par 3 is called (or a -3 on a par 4). This means that you shot the ball from the tee on your first shot to land it in the hole (ie you score one for the hole). Hook: When the swing has been made with too much power, the meter will swing back and forth. For a left-handed player the meter will swing to the right while for a right-handed player the meter will swing to the left. Out of Bounds: Landing in this area will result in a one stroke penalty being accessed, followed by returning the ball to the point of origin. Rough: This long grass is placed all around the fairway to penalize you for your errant shot, with the longer grass, less control of ball, and lessening of the distance your shot will travel. Slice: When the swing has been made with too much power, the meter will swing back and forth. For a left-handed player the meter will swing to the left while for a right-handed player the meter will swing to the right. Tee: Every hole starts from this location, and it is the only time that the ball is allowed to be elevated using a "tee" (this makes the ball fly easier). Triple Bogey: This is what a +3 on a hole is called. This means that you shot two over par for the hole (ie par 5 hole means you shot 8). Water Hazard: Any water that is hit into will result in a one stroke penalty being assessed, followed by placing the ball on the last piece of land that was passed over by the balls flight. Wind: This can push the ball off course while it is in the air, so be sure to compensate for this force of nature. Controls: =========------------------------ The most important aspect of hitting the ball is to understand the Swing Meter on the right side of the screen. The four dots on it represent 25%, 50%, 75%, and 100% power on the swing respectively, and they also represent at what point the ball should land from the stroke (this does not include the roll after the shot, if any). If the 100% level is surpassed, the ball will begin to bend wildly in one direction or another, with the more power over 100% applied, the larger the bend (and further the ball) will fly. There is a cap on the power applicable to a stroke, but trying to overswing is only useful in certain situations (see Strategies sub-section for details). To actually take a swing, face the TV and take a few smooth swings, drawing back the Remote before going towards the TV. Take the practice swings that are allowed, getting a feel for how hard to swing, how far back and forward to move the remote, getting used to the power applied. Putting is even more important for learning how to apply power (the Swing Meter is similar in that regard), though very little backswing is needed. Instead, learn how far to follow through on the putting stroke to apply the necessary power, noting that the 25%, 50%, 75%, and 100% mark about how far the ball should roll (not taking into account the various slopes). To see the lay of the green, press the 1 Button to get a better view of the sloping areas. Gameplay Strategies: =========---------------------- - Always take practice swings until it becomes second nature on how hard to swing. By taking practice swings, figuring out the right motion and weight for each swing will make it easier to be more accurate with the stroke. - Get used to moving the Remote back and forth for the swing, locating areas where the Remote pauses for both ends of the swing. By doing this it is possible to find a fairly accurate way to control the distance the ball will travel. By picking out body portions to get the Remote equal to it is possible to hit very specific power levels on the Swing Gauge. - Be aggressive and go after each hole with gusto, but no when it is time to just lay up or go for the far side of the green. When the risk is too high or the reward not worth quite enough, it is best to shoot for just short of the potential hazard or go wide of the area to set up an easier shot. - When putting, abuse the 1 Button lay of the green function. This will not only show the slopes, but it will also supply the severity of the slopes (harshest being the bright yellow, running down to the darkest green as the least severe) so aiming putts to correct for slope will become far easier to do. - Before doing anything, always correct for the wind. By doing this first it is assured that it will never be forgotten, meaning that a stroke will not be made accidentally without some resistance being applied to the wind. - When chipping to the green, always check out the slopes of the green with the 1 Button. Correct the aim of the stroke so the slopes that will be crossed can be rolled across towards the hole instead of away from it. The majority of chips miss because of slopes, so try and think the shot through ahead of time to get the ball closer (or even in) consistently. - After playing a few rounds, it should be easy enough to remember how the holes are laid out, specifically the slopes and bumps near or on the green. Using this knowledge to your advantage, hit balls into slope close to the pin to stop the ball quickly, or hitting downhills short of the green to run the ball onto the green. By using the terrain to your advantage, the ball will end up closer to the green than if the land is ignored. Hole-Specific Strategies: =========---------------------- -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Hole 1 (Par 4): Aim right up the gut of the hole, taking into account any wind. Even with a hook or a slice at worst the lie after the tee shot should be rough. The second shot should be an Iron from around 90-120 yards, so try to land the ball just short of the green, letting the slight slope of the green slow the progress of the ball, getting it close to the hole. The green is a fairly flat surface, so it will have minimal break with which to counteract, but do study the square cut of the green to see if the break exists (see the Strategies section for a paragraph about square cut break reading). -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Hole 2 (par 3) Go for the green off the tee here, adjusting for the wind, followed by hitting the ball at about 3.25 power on the swing gauge (using an Iron). If done correctly the ball should be close to the hole, though headwinds or tailwinds can mess with this, so adjust accordingly. The green has a general left to right breaking pattern (looking from the front of the green), so be ready to adjust the aim of the putt to counteract this possible obstacle. -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Hole 3 (par 5) Time for the first hard decision of the course, and the wind will likely affect which choice is made. Provided the wind is not blowing right at the tee box, the better bet for scoring a low score on this hole is to drive the over the rough area near the trees, bouncing the ball out into the fairway, as this sets up a possible second shot reaching the green. If that is too risky or the wind is not cooperating, go to the right of the rough and tree portion, setting up a two shot approach to the green. Note it is also possible to go for the small patch of fairway out in the middle of the Out Of Bounds area, but it can prove to be a very tough area to reach, so only the most sure in their shots should attempt this daring blast from the tee box. If the green is reachable after the tee shot, go for it and get on in two (or very close). Otherwise, just hit it as far up the fairway as it feels comfortable to, setting up a third shot with the Iron to get on with instead. The green slopes mostly from back to front, though there is a little bit of left to right action as well. Adjust carefully and remember that harder putts mean less break, but if they miss they go by the hole further than a more distance accurate putt (but it suffers from more break). -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Hole 4 (par 3) With the bunker out front, it is tempting to overswing here, but it safer to be short than long, as the back has little protection against the ball going into the drink. Hit the ball at least 3.2 power on the swing gauge, getting the ball to hit the front of the green on the fly. Due to the sloped nature of the green, the ball will not get a lot of roll if done correctly. The green has a large hump at the back (designed to keep balls in play) but it also boasts a mighty downhill and left to right break. The rest of the green feeds towards the front-right section, so expect some break in any putt made on this surface. -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Hole 5 (par 5) Another choice for a tee on a par 5, though this one does not have the greatest risk/reward ratio. Risking is going for the small rough patch on the corner of the fairway, slowing the ball down to stop on the fairway, but due to the narrow chunk of fairway there it is not really worth it except it sets up a shorter approach shot (meaning more likely to get on in 2 shots). The safer method of teeing off is to aim along that rough path and hit at a 3 power on the swing gauge to stop short of the bunker, getting a fairway lie to try the longer approach shot. No matter what happened on the tee shot, the second shot will be a long one to try and make the green (provided the lie is on fairway). Go around the bunker and just try to stick the green, not being too greedy to go for the pin due to the bunker. If in the rough for the second shot, hit a Wood dead up the middle at as high of a power as possible, not worrying about the hook/slice from the overswing, as the ball will stay on the stay on the fairway anyhow, setting up a close in third shot (stick it by the pin). The green is like a big bowl, all sloped towards the middle area. This means that any shot that remains near the border will have a rather filthy slope to put down, gaining momentum and having to readjust aim. Even after the harshest portions, the green still slopes slightly in various directions, so make proper adjustments before smacking the putt delicately. -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Hole 6 (par 4) The tee shot must go between the water/rough combo on the right and the bunker on the left, so adjust for wind before smacking a solid tee shot out onto the fairway. If the ball is in the rough, it will be tougher to get close to the hole, but it should be possible to get near or on the green. If on the fairway go after the pin aggressively, using the slope near the rough near the green and the bunker to slow the ball enough to stop by the hole. The green has a large bump at the back end, which breaks the ball severely from left to right, while the bottom area is sloped from back to front slightly. This means that any putt from the front just has to cross one small break, but shots from the rear have to contend with a harsh left to right break AND the downhill slope from back to front. -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Hole 7 (par 4) This is a potentially huge make or break hole, as it is possible to go for the green in one! Provided the wind is not too much of a headwind, aim the ball right at the hole and hit a shot at about 3.75 power on the swing gauge or better. Note that cross winds can cause problems, as can the overswing, because both can push the ball into the trees, landing the ball in Out of Bounds. This means that going for this is only recommended for those who are 100% confident in their abilities. Otherwise, hit the ball up the narrow fairway and cut between the rough and bunker to try and get clear of the trees on the right. Provided the ball did not get hung up behind the trees ahead, go for the green here, using a fairly aggressive power level to hit the slope of the green, climbing up towards the hole on the bounce. If a tree is in the way, try to hit as close to the green as possible, followed by chipping on to get it as close as possible. The green is a two-tier set-up, with the lower area having little slope until it begins to climb to the second tier, where a right to left break accompanies the slope that runs from front to back. Getting close to the hole on the approach shot will help avoid a multiple break putt. -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Hole 8 (par 3) Using the wood, smack the ball at a 3.1-3.35 power range on the swing guage (adding or removing based on the wind factors), landing the ball on the small patch of rough short of the green to slow the ball, running it onot and sticking to the green. If the shot is a tad long, use an accurate chip to get the ball close for a par putt. The green has a right to left slope that runs right across it (going from severe on the right to minimal on the left side), which is further compounded by the back to front slope that the green also possesses. In fact the only flat portion is the small area of green right behind the hole. This is a tough green to putt on, so get as close to possible to cut out all the various factors this green possesses. -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Hole 9 (par 5) With a decent tailwind, a pro player can try to go for the left island off the tee, hammering a full power shot with NO slice/hook added on, barely reaching and setting up a rather short shot to the green in two. This is only for those who are absolute masters of the game (or the daring or the stupid or the stupidly daring). Otherwise hit the ball to the right island, trying to keep it as close to the front-left area of the fairway as possible, setting up a possible second shot for the green. If the chance of making the green in two exists, consider the wind before doing so. If it is not possible to make it there in two, hit up to one of the two other islands, getting closer and staying on the fairway to set up a third shot to hit the green with. Just note that a huge overswing could put the ball in the water, though an underswing could do the same thing. ;) The green is a monster, boasting a three tier set-up, sort of like a bulls-eye on a target. This means that each ring gets higher up in altitude as the hole is approached, meaning that the raised center will have downslope and possible breaks in any direction, depending on where the ball is. Adjust accordingly (as best as possible) while slightly increasing the amount hit over what the aimer line suggests (fights the effect of the downslope) to try and get the ball into the hole. -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Boxing [BOXG] +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Terminology: =========---------------------- Block: Simply put, to block is to guard against a punch with your gloves. Dodge: You can move side to side (dodge) by moving the remote and nunchuk left and right at the same time. Hook: This is a punch that curves off to the side, and then hits your opponent in their side, with a curved motion. Jab: A basic straight punch. It can be to the face or to the body. KO: A knockount. This occurs when you knock your opponent down, and they get a ten-count. If this happens, you win. Round: Fights are divided into three rounds, of three minutes each. Between rounds both fighters take a short break. Uppercut: This is a punch that starts with your hand lowered, and then quickly moving upward to hit your opponent in the jaw. Controls: =========------------------------ To a degree, the gloves in boxing correspond to where you actually hold the Wii Remote (right glove) and Nunchuk (left glove.) It isn't exact, but it is close -- close enough to allow you to do a Randy Orton pose or a Bruce Lee roar, if you're so inclined; but that's another story... To do jabs, you'll have to stick either the remote or the nunchuk out, and then retract it. Do this motion with a slight angle upward to aim for the head, and at a slight angle downward to aim for the body. The faster you make this motion, then pull back from it, the more damage you'll put out with the punch. Furthermore, you can do quick 1-2s, but punching with one hand, then as soon as it finishes do a stronger punch with the second hand. If you do this correctly, a "slow-down" effect on screen will be shown, and you'll do much more damage (shown in the pie meters.) In addition to jabs, you can also do hooks and uppercuts. Quickly move the wii remote down and to the right, at a 45 degree angle in order to do a right body hook. You can go for a right hook to the face by "turning" the remote to the left quickly, although it is a fair bit harder to do than the low hook. The same controls work for the nunchuk, to do the left-hand variations of these punches. Uppercuts can be done by holding the wii remote or nunchuk to the ground, and quickly bringing them upward; this punch is not very trustworthy, however, and you may find yourself unable to do it when you want. You can dodge by moving both the remote and the nunchuk to a side at the same time. Move them to the right, and you'll dodge left. Similarly, bring them both to the left, and you'll dodge to the left. You can throw punches from your leaning position, if you like. You can also block using your gloves, though. Hold them both up in front of you to block your face, and hold them both around your stomach, tilted slightly inward towards eachother to block your stomach. If you are knocked down, rapidly jab the remote and nunchuk forward (alternating style) to help your boxer regain his feet. If he has taken a bad beating, it may not be possible, but never give up because you never know. Strategies: =========---------------------- - In the early fights, you don't have to worry about dodging or blocking at all. Hell, you don't even have to perform a variety of punches. Sticking to 1-2 combos with your jabs will work fine. However, you really should practice better strategies so you don't get clobbered in the tougher fights. Try tossing in some hooks, blocks, and dodges just to get a feel for it. - When you're in trouble, you can almost always spam low-right hooks to get out of it. This works fine up until you have 1600 skill points or so. Just jerk the wii remote down and to the right at a 45 degree angle. Your opponent will rarely block it, and even if they do, they almost always leave you a chance to retaliate with a similar punch. These surprisngly do just as much damage, if not more, than head shots -- and speaking of headshots, you can often sneak one in just after coming out of a right-hook. - As soon as a round starts, you'll usually have a chance to get ahead by swiftly tossing a left jab, then a right jab at your opponent's face. If you miss, you miss, and leave yourself open. You can come back from that though. The thing is, if you hit, alot of the times, you can toss more 1-2 combos, and just wail on your opponent until they either go down, or a good portion of their health bar is emptied. - In the harder fights, at the higher skill levels, the main difference is that your opponents are more aggressive. To counteract this, you'll have to be more aggressive as well. Don't let up on your punches, unless you scout an incoming punch to dodge or block. Try to hit your opponent in the head, but if they block, don't throw punches to the same area continuously. Mix it up a little, and when you get an opening seize it. And remember, if you block an opponent's punch, that creates an opening for you. Don't let it pass. - Knockouts are not as random as they may seem. The more "strong" punches (the ones that go in slow-motion in 1-2 combos) you land, and the faster you knock down your opponent, the less likely a chance they have to get up. Obviously, how many times you've knocked them down to begin with also factors into it. I don't foresee many of the fighters getting up past the fourth knockdown. - If neither you nor your opponent can get a decisive KO finish by the end of the third round, it will come down to a decision. The three rounds will be scored objectively, based on who did better (who landed more punches, who did more damage, who scored more knockdowns, etc.) in either your or your opponent's favor. It may also be a tie. Whoever has more points is the winner. If the overall score is a tie, the match is considered a draw. *THANKS TO Jonathan Stark for this strategy* -I simply stand in front of them, hold up my gloves and then do quick dodges back and forth over a small area (right in front of the opponent). Invariably, all their punches will either miss or be blocked by my raised gloves. Often their missed punches will cause time to slow down, which is the perfect time to launch a volley of blows. Usually you can easily pull off a quick one-two (or even three-four) that will leave them with half their life depleted. After two or three good combos like this, they'll be down. Of course, they'll get back up occasionally, but then it's simply time to rinse and repeat. _ _ | |-----|====================================================|-----| | ___| |___ | | ___| |___ |___ ___| | 3. Training Modes (TRAN) | |___ ___| | | | | | | |_|-----|====================================================|-----|_| +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Tennis +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Baseball +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Training Mode: Hitting Home Runs ======================---------------------------------------------------- This game is very simple, but not as easy as it sounds. A pitcher will pitch ten balls to you, and you'll have to hit as many as you can, in an attempt to get home runs. If you one hit one, you should be swing the bat hard when the ball is directly in front of the plate. Aim to hit the ball with the center of the bat, for best results, as hitting it from the tip or lower portion will usually give you foul balls. The distance needed for a homerun differs depending on which part of the field you're in, obviously, but if you hit it dead center, 400 feet or so will get you one. If you want the gold, you'll have to nail one every single time though. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Training Mode: Swing Control ======================---------------------------------------------------- This mode starts with different shadings of blue on the ground. There's a dark blue panel in the center, two light blue panels on either side of it, and then two white panels further out. You'll get points if you land on any of these areas, with more points being closer to the center. The first four pitches will have the lit up area directly in front of you. So there, aim to hit the ball from the center of the bat, straight ahead. The next three will be off to the left. So at this time, try and hit the ball with the top portion of the bat, so that it goes to the left. For the last three pitches, the lit up area will be on your right. So, inversely, try and hit it with the bottom section of the bat. Timing your swing is everything, since you get no points if you miss the ball, or do not have it land on a lit up section of the ground. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Training Mode: Batting Practice ======================---------------------------------------------------- This is the simplest of the baseball training games, but also the longest. The pitcher will throw 30 pitches to you. If you hit it, and it stays in play or you get a homerun, you'll get a point (as long as it goes more than a few feet in front of you.) If you miss, or hit a foul ball, you will not get a point. The pitcher won't stop, such just keep swinging at every pitch. Don't put too much power in the swings: Just be consistent and try to keep a rhythm. You need about 20 for a silver medal, and 27 for a gold medal. If you're able to get them all, you'll get a well-earned platinum medal. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Bowling +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Training Mode: Picking Up Spares ======================---------------------------------------------------- Using spin when necessary, get all the pins down in one throw. Five misses and the game ends, so learn from the miss throws to get the same pin set-up the second time through! Score 6-11 spares for a Bronze medal, 12-15 spares for a Silver medal, and 15+ spares for a Gold medal! _______________ Key | | 1 = 1 Pin | 2 = 2 Pin | 3 = 3 Pin | 4 = 4 Pin | 5 = 5 Pin | 6 = 6 Pin | 7 = 7 Pin | 8 = 8 Pin | 9 = 9 Pin | 0 = 10 Pin | S = Stand Here | | _______________| Spare #01 _______ | | Throw a ball straight down the middle to clear this lane. | | | | | 1 | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | S Spare #02 _______ | | Line up so the ball will roll straight down the alley and hit both | | pins as it rolls through. | 3 | | 1 | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | S Spare #03 _______ |7 8 | Line up so the ball can be tossed straight down to hit the three pins. | 4 | Alternatively, line up and throw a curving left ball to hit all three | | with enough force that one of the flying pins picks up the 7 pin. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | S Spare #04 _______ | 9 | Line up directly at the 3 pin, throwing a straight on ball to plow | 5 6 | through the four pins for the clear. | 3 | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | S Spare #05 _______ | | Aim straight on for between the 1 pin and 2 pin, pushing the 2 pin | 4 | into the 4 pin. | 2 | | 1 | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | S Spare #06 _______ | 9 | Aim just to the right of the 1 pin, clipping it so it hits the 2 pin | | while the ball rolls into the 9 pin at the back of the lane. | 2 | | 1 | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | S Spare #07 _______ | 9 | Aim straight at the 3 pin, hitting it smack on to knock the 3 pin into | | the 9 pin. It is possible to have that pin miss but for the ball to | 3 | still roll into the 9 pin too, but it is not very likely. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | S Spare #08 _______ | 0| Aim between the 1 pin and 3 pin, throwing a straight ball that will | 6 | push the 3 pin into starting a chain reaction of knockdowns of the | 3 | 6 pin and 10 pin. | 1 | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | S Spare #09 _______ | | Use the tried and true method of aiming straight down the lane on | 5 6 | whichever side is your bowler's dominant hand, throwing a curve to | 2 3 | bring the ball into the cluster of pins (like if there were 10 pins | 1 | still standing). If done right the 1 pin will take out the far side | | of the set while the ball gets the close side of the set. | | | | | | | | | | | | Spare #10 _______ | 8 | Do the same as Spare #09 if the bowler is right-handed, but for a | 5 | left-handed bowler it is easiest to aim just left of the center of the | 3 | 1 pin, throwing a straight ball that will ricochet off of the 1 pin | 1 | and 5 pin to take out the 8 pin at the rear. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | S Spare #11 _______ | 0| Cut the 3 pin so it flies into the 10 pin to ge this one, or throw a | | ball that hits the inside of the 3 pin and ricochets out to the side | 3 | enough to ctach the 10 pin. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | S Spare #12 _______ |7 8 | If a right-handed bowler, perform the usual curved throw (as if going | 4 5 | for 10 pins). A left-handed bowler can try the same (though they | 2 3 | face a tough and awkward throw), or they can also try from the strong | 1 | side and go for the strike throw (hoping the ball hits the pins down | | in a ricochet manner). | | | | | | | | | | | | Spare #13 _______ | 8 | Throw the ball straight down the middle here, plowing through the line | 5 | of pins with ease. | 2 | | 1 | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | S Spare #14 _______ | 8 | Throw the ball straight down at the right portion of the 3 pin, | 6 | sending the 3 pin across the lane to catch the 8 pin while the ball | 3 | rolls through the 6 pin. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | S Spare #15 _______ | 8 9 0| If right-handed throw a straight shot just off the right portion of | 5 6 | 3 pin, ricocheting down the 5 pin, 8 pin, and 9 pin while the ball | 3 | gets the 6 pin and 10 pin. For left-handed bowlers, shift the strike | | throw over one arrow and let it fly to get all the pins down here. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | Spare #16 _______ | 9 0| Aim at the 3 pin and just to the left portion of it, as the ball will | | roll back and snag the 9 pin while the 10 pin goes down thanks to the | 3 | flying 3 pin. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | S Spare #17 _______ |7 8 | Throw a straight ball down between these two pins to get both of them. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | S Spare #18 _______ |7 0| Cut the 3 pin on the right side with a straight throw, sending it | | flying across the land to smack the 7 pin while the ball rolls on to | 3 | get the 10 pin. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | S Spare #19 _______ |7 | Cut the right side of the 5 pin to send it flying across the lane to | 5 | pick off the 7 pin, which is a fairly thin cut (so go far right on the | | 5 pin). | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | S Spare #20 _______ | | With an easy throw left, a straight on approach will get that last pin | | with ease. Clear this one to get the eluisve Platinum medal (thanks | | to Corak42 for the info on this frame)! | 1 | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Training Mode: Power Throws ======================---------------------------------------------------- Whip the ball down the bumpered lanes, attempting to send all the pins down for a double score on that round. With each round a new set of pins is added, so a hard throw that curves into the pile is an absolute must to score big times points! 1st = 10 pins 2nd = 15 pins 3rd = 21 pins 4th = 28 pins 5th = 36 pins 6th = 45 pins 7th = 55 pins 8th = 66 pins 9th = 78 pins 10th = 91 pins However, there is a neat trick to be performed in the 10th round of the mini-game, which if done successfully will cause all the pins to fall down. To undersdtand why it works jus watch the left or right side of the full lane during the early rounds, looking over the bumpers to see a small red button on either side of the lane attached to the cieling of the pin house. This is important as during the 10th and final round the bumper walls are lined up right with this button, so the attempt can be made on the button at that time. Left-handed bowlers will need to go down the left bumper while the right-handed bowlers will need to go down the right bumper. Move all the way over to the wall, followed by moving one spot away from the wall, followed by pressing the A Button to make an angle change, moving one spot towards the wall, followed by throwing the ball down the wall with the Remote angled about 30 degrees towards the the center of the lane, releasing the ball very late in the throw. If done correctly the ball will roll all the way down the wall and smack the button, clearing the lane of standing pins! -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Training Mode: Spin Control ======================---------------------------------------------------- Avoid the barriers and knock down the pin that remains standing. Carefully angle each shot and add spin to get at those hard to reach targets! Score 6-11 hits for a Bronze medal, 12-15 hits for a Silver medal, and 15+ hits for a Gold medal, but after five misses the game ends, so be careful! _______________ Key | | 1 = 1 Pin | 2 = 2 Pin | 3 = 3 Pin | 4 = 4 Pin | 5 = 5 Pin | 6 = 6 Pin | 7 = 7 Pin | 8 = 8 Pin | 9 = 9 Pin | 0 = 10 Pin | - = Barriers | S = Stand Here | | _______________| Lane #01 _______ | | Move to the far side of the alley and aim right at the pin before | | hurling the ball at it to score the first point! | | | 1 | | | | | | | | | | --- | | | | | S S Lane #02 _______ | | Same as before, but this the game forces you to go to the left side | | before aiming right at the pin to clobber it. | | | 1 | | | | | | | | | | -----| | | | | S Lane #03 _______ | | Throw a straight shot up the gut to ge the 1 pin here. | | | | | 1 | | | | | | | | | |-- --| | | | | S Lane #04 _______ | | Go to the right side of the lane and aim right at the 1 pin, hurtling | | a straight throw into the head pin for the score. | | | 1 | | | | | | | | | |----- | | | | | S Lane #05 _______ | 0| Stand just off to the left of center (as makred on the ASCII map), | | followed by aiming right at the 10 pin and hurtling a straight throw | | through the barriers to get the point. | | | | | | | | | | |-- --| | | | | S Lane #06 _______ | 0| Go to the right side of the lane and hurl the ball down the side of | | the lane right at the 10 pin to knock it down. | | | | | | |----- | | | | | |----- | | | | | S Lane #07 _______ | | Aim the ball to the left so it is lined up between the two barriers, | 4 | followed by throwing the ball with some right spin and minimal speed | | to send it bending around the second barrier to hit the 4 pin. | | | | | | | ---| | | | | |--- | | | S Lane #08 _______ | | Throw a straight ball from the starting position to peg the 1 pin | | after splitting the barriers. | | | 1 | | | |-- --| | | | | | | | | | | S Lane #09 _______ | | Line as far left as possible, aiming the ball so it appears to be just | | to the left of the barrier, followed by starting the throw, making | | sure the release of the ball comes as late as possible while having a | 1 | very hard throw and maximum right spin applied. If done correctly the | | ball will clear the gutter and spin around the barrier to crack the | | 1 pin. | | | -----| | | | | | | S Lane #10 _______ | | Once again the throw must come as late as possible, throwing straight | | at the 1 pin so the ball will roll through it after it flies out of | | hand and over the barrier. | 1 | | | | | | | | | | | |-------| | | Lane #11 _______ |7 | Go to the right side of the lane and aim the ball so it will roll | | close to the barrier, but when thrown apply some spin to the left with | | minimal speed to send the ball curving into the 7 pin. | | | | | | | | |---- | | | | | | | S Lane #12 _______ | | Left-handed bowlers go to the far left side of the lane while the | | right handed bowlers go the far right side of the lane. Aim the ball | | so it appears to just go past the third barrier on the dotted line, | 1 | followed by throwing the ball as late as possible in the release, | | applying severe spin towards the 1 pin position to wrap around and | --- | crank the head pin. | | | --- | | | | --- | | | S S Lane #13 _______ | | Aim straight down the lane from the spot in the ASCII map, throwing a | | light ball with spin to make the 1 pin the next victim by wrapping | | around the second barrier. | 1 | | | | | | --- | | | |- | | | | | S Lane #14 _______ |7 | Aim just to the left of the 7 pin from the position on the ASCII map, | | letting the ball fly with a slight curve to make it wrap back to | | crank that pin down. | | | | | ----| | | | | |--- --| | | | | S Lane #15 _______ | | Aim straight down the lane and throw the ball so it beigns to wrap | 5 | around the second barrier and hit the 5 pin. | | | | | -----| | | | | | -----| | | | | | | S Lane #16 _______ | | Move tothe side of the lande that matches your throwing hand, whipping | 5 | a fast and hard throw with the aim being just past the first barrier | | and spin towards the pin to get through the second barrier set to hit | | the pin. |-- --| | | | | | --- | | | | | | | S S Lane #17 _______ |7 | Throw straight down the lane here, bending the ball towards the pin | | with a lot of spin. | | | | | | |-- --| | | | | |-- --| | | | | S Lane #18 _______ | 0| Go as far left as possible, followed by aiming so the ball will just | | pass the first barrier. Now throw the ball with some left spin to | | get the ball to change course for the pin and not go into the gutter. | | |--- | | | | | | ---| | | | | | | S Lane #19 _______ | 0| Aim the ball so it will roll past the second barrier, then throw the | | ball with rightward spin on it, bending around the smaller barrier | | to snag the 10 pin for the score. | | | -| | | | | |----- | | | | | | | S Lane #20 _______ |7 8 9 0| With a full complement of pins to knock down on this final set, so | 4 5 6 | line up and use the typical strike attempt that is the bread and | 2 3 | butter of your regular game. Clear this one to get the elusive | 1 | Platinum Medal! | | | | | | | | | | | | | | -------------------------------------------------------------------------- +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Golf +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Training Mode: Putting ======================---------------------------------------------------- Using the 1 Button to show the mounds on the green, line up putts and drop them. Take into account cross slopes as well as head on slopes, adjusting aim and power to make the ball reach the cup properly. If a miss occurs, make the necessary adjustments on the previous line, also taking into account any changes additional power on the putt may cause. Score 10 putts before getting 5 misses, gaining the Gold Medal! -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Training Mode: Hitting the Green ======================---------------------------------------------------- Chip the ball as close to the pin as possible, getting a score based on how much distance remains to the hole. However, have a shot land off the green (even the Green Edge) and get a default score of 100 feet! This game rewards those who are able to read the landing area of a ball and the rolling that occurs afterward, so adjust aim based off lie of the green (use the 1 Button once again to find slopes). As for distance, it is usually key to go about 1 power rating below the swing gauge suggestion on screen. On the longer shots a choice must be made between overswinging the wedge and hoping the hook/slice is not too severe, or using the Iron to half swing a ball at the green, but note this second option has a long run on the ball making it a very delicate matter (swing for well short of the hole). Score less than 125 feet for the Gold, while Silver is the 125-250 foot range and the Bronze is about 250-400 feet. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Training Mode: Target Practice ======================---------------------------------------------------- Hit the ball onto the targets that lie ahead, running up a score based on how accurate the landing of the ball is. It is easier to hit for the shorter target with an Iron, but the higher score is to be had on the further away target, though it requires use of the Wood. Adjust the aim for the wind before hitting the ball, remembering that it takes about 3.5 power on the swing gauge to hit the 100 point bulls-eye on the far target pre-wind effects. High end swing meter accuracy is rewarded with higher scores here, as is being able to effectively read and adjust to the wind. Score 250-450 points for a Bronze medal, 450-650 for a Silver Medal, and clear 650 points for the elusive Gold Medal! -------------------------------------------------------------------------- +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Boxing +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Training Mode: Working the Bag ======================---------------------------------------------------- In this mode, you'll have bags placed in front of you, one at a time, which you'll have to knock down. They can either be brown, white, or black. The brown ones will go down quickly, while the white ones take longer, and the black ones take an unholy amount of time to destroy. You'll be scored one point for each bag you destroy, regardless of color. So that's where luck will come in. You won't be getting any high scores if they keep giving you black bags. To take the bags down, you should be using 1-2 combos: A left jab, followed quickly by a right jab (reversed if you are left handed.) If you go fast enough, the second punch will do considerably more damage than it ordinarily would. You'll still have to punch hard though, to maximize the damage. You should be able to take down brown bags with just one combos. Aim for two or three for the white bags, and four for the black ones if you are going for a high score. Also know, however, that ocassionally the bag will be on the left or the right of where it usually starts. If this happens you'll have to lean to hit it. It will also start swinging if you hit it with a hook, but throwing hooks is a horrible thing to do in this excercise anyway, so just avoid that. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Training Mode: Dodging ======================---------------------------------------------------- This game can be calm and relaxing, or viciously painful, depending on how you play. A man will begin throwing balls at you, and you'll have to dodge them by moving either left or right. Simple enough. However if you stand up and actually start weaving, in a few tries, you'll be exhausted. That's a fact. A much simpler method is to just tilt both the remote and the nunchuk to bob in that direction. The only other part of the game is knowing in what direction to dodge. If the guy holds a ball in his right hand, go left, and vice versa. That's easy. However, as you go he'll often start speeding up. And while you may get into a rhythm of going left, and right, left, and right, don't let yourself be fooled. He switches it up every once in a while, and you don't want to be caugh off guard. You'll also have to be weary of him throwing two balls at once. When that happens you'll have to look at what direction he's leaning in, then as quickly as you can, you'll have to move in the other direction as far as you can. You can sometimes dodge it by staying in between the two balls, but only if he moves his arms far apart before throwing. There's no point to risking this, since if you wait to see how far apart he moves his arms, you won't have time to dodge out of the way if he throws them close together. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Training Mode: Throwing Punches ======================---------------------------------------------------- In this game your trainer will hold up punch mitts, either one at a time or both at once. Scoring is simple: If you punch a glove, you'll get a point, and if you hit the trainer, you'll lose one. The position of his gloves will change though. If he holds it low, do a jab to get it. A right jab if its on you right, and a left jab if its on your left. If he puts it up higher, use the opposite hand (ie. if its on your left, move to the side a bit and hit it with a right.) If he sticks the mitt out to his side, you can slide over to hit it, but it will waste time. It will be quicker to hit it with a hook. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- _ _ | |-----|====================================================|-----| | ___| |___ | | ___| |___ |___ ___| | 4. Fitness Test (TEST) | |___ ___| | | | | | | |_|-----|====================================================|-----|_| Once a day, for each Mii, you'll be allowed to take a Fitness Test. What this is, is a series of three random sport events. On the first day, you'll be scored between 20 and 80, based on how well you do on the series as a whole. This is your "fitness age." Each day hereafter, when you play it, you will be able to score in a narrow range surrounding your score. You'll either raise in age slightly, or drop in age slightly. The goal is to work at it every day to try and reach 20 -- young and strong. It's just for fun, though. Don't put too much thought into it. _ _ | |-----|====================================================|-----| | ___| |___ | | ___| |___ |___ ___| | 5. Credits (CRED) | |___ ___| | | | | | | |_|-----|====================================================|-----|_| Brian Sulpher - Author one. Chris Quigley - Author two. Corak42 - Information on bowling's training mode. Beefaroni8321 - Information on boxing's training mode. SuperSaiyanSonic - Information on Tennis strokes. Jonathan Stark - Information on Boxing (how to get up and fast strategy)